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Tap tap (coil tap, pacifica?)

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Postby imalone » May 9th, 2012, 2:47 pm

My problem is I tinker when there's no need to...
My Pacifica 112 is a pre-update model. The 112V released a couple of years ago (and most of the other letters in the range) has a coil tap on its bridge humbucker, and I'm jealous. Does anyone know if the humbucker on the older 112s can be coil tapped or would I have to replace it to allow that? It's HSS configured, but I don't know if the bridge-middle switch position coil taps the bridge. I've found one Yamaha wiring diagram for yet another variant (112j) which shows a bridge pickup with no coil tap. Of course I can take the pickguard off next time I change strings, but my other problem is I'm impatient.

Edit:
Seymour Duncan helpfully have a diagram of exactly what I'm after. Except obviously I don't need to do the neck coil tap. Wonder if I can get a set of rails in there.
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Postby EzraplaysEzra » May 9th, 2012, 8:35 pm

I think you mean coil-split, taking the humbucker and "splitting" the two coil so you have a single coil option? The two terms kind of got blended together at some point, strange. An actual coil tap involves "tapping" into the wire coil at some point late in the coil, so you can effectively have a pick up with a 6 ohm output with the coil interrupted and boosted to 8.5 ohms when the entire coil is utilized via a switch.
You can split any passive humbucker (unless its epoxy sealed) If there are 4 (or 5) leads from the base plate it wont require any access to internal parts of the humbucker. If there are four leads, all you really need to know (besides the circuit and I know you can handle that) is what color wire corrisponds to the beginning and end of each coil. I'd be willing to bet there is a Pacifica forum with that dope.
If the stock bucker has a braided lead, get a nice used replacement with four leads then go ahead and rip that stock one open and try to do the split yourself. However it ends up, you got a splitter.

http://www.stratcat.biz/4022.shtml

I have found this type of mini toggle switch mount for less, but I can't find it right now. I have been racking my brain trying to find a reason to use one of these mounts on a strat. It looks really clean and custom installed, you can only see it if your looking and way cooler (and easier I think) than a stacked pot to operate. Google Gilmore start to see one installed.
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Postby imalone » May 9th, 2012, 11:18 pm

Hi, yes I'm after splitting the h/b to give a single coil option. Yamaha call it a coil tap on the 112v, I think I've seen it called both, but we're talking about the same thing. I've never had he pickguard off, so was wondering if anyone else knew (or knew what aftermarket ones would be good alternatives) as I think there are some pacifica owners about here. Pacifica forum is a good idea, I'll have a look.

Anything that involves me trying to take the stock humbucker apart is going to end up requiring a new pick-up (and I do like it). Having a look last night turned up IronGear who seem a bit like a British GFS and get good reviews (and not all on their own site). Those are cheap enough that I might just get one to try.
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Postby EzraplaysEzra » May 10th, 2012, 3:23 am

So, I searched used pacifica parts on Ebay and from what I can tell from pictures of the underside of the pickguard they are NOT four conductor. The website you linked seemed to have some good options and tastes. the only thing is, I didn't notice any info on pole spacing listed so you may have to research that ifs the kind of thing that bothers you.


A side note, googleing "Pacifica Parts" results in a lot of porn. You never know whats gonna lead you where on the internet.
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Postby imalone » May 10th, 2012, 7:24 am

Thanks for looking, hadn't thought about checking out pictures on ebay for the wiring. Good point about the pole spacing, I did find the dimensions (clicking on the miniature schematics), so I can go and take measurements on the current ones (and less of a problem for the rails too).

(Sounds like rule 34 at work.)
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Postby imalone » May 10th, 2012, 3:46 pm

Well, I've taken the pick guard off (or so far as possible) and made a few measurements.

Jail rails, the rails might be a little tight as the single coil slots are cut very tight, this will depend on the radius, but I can file a little if needed. Rail length is fine, will cover all strings easily.

Hot Slag pole spacing is 10.4mm centres pole-pole, so 52mm overall, stock is 50mm overall (centres), so about 1mm shift either end, that's fine with me (actually, stock poles are a little tighter than the strings). Physical size without a cover is fine for the current slot (near identical to the current set).

Tried to measure the volume pot, I think that should be possible without disconnecting the circuit by measuring the guitar hot output to pot high with volume at minimum, but couldn't get a clean reading. If the 112J diagram is to be believed it's 500K. Routing in the electronics compartment is 39mm deep and will easily take a push-pull/push-push pot (not so keen on the switch: white pick-guard and also don't have the tools to cut it properly). Couldn't get a clean reading because I've only got needle probes and couldn't get the guard off cleanly because...

The electronics are very neatly done, I suspect they must have been connected before being fitted to the pick guard. Shielding for each pup cable is run almost right up to the 5-way at which point (and this is going to be the awkward bit) the shields are braided together into another sheath to earth. Unless anyone can suggest otherwise I think I'll have to cut the shield of any pup I want to change. Also to get access to work at it I think the easiest thing is going to be to remove all components from the pick-guard, haven't messed around with this stuff before, is that the normal approach?
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Postby EzraplaysEzra » May 10th, 2012, 4:25 pm

With the h/b in the circuit, I'm pretty sure it is a 500k pot. No reason to make more work unless you see something. I always work on the pickguard.
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Postby imalone » May 11th, 2012, 4:01 am

Well, the humbucker and pieces are ordered, I'll report back how it goes. I've left the rails out for the minute. Reasoning for taking everything off the scratch plate: I'd meant to write that but it was getting quite late. Essentially cables connected to the jack and bridge are too short to turn it over without removing them, working at it like this isn't going to be possible so either they come off (and getting them back on is either very awkward or replace completely) or I take at least the pots and switch off the plate.
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Postby imalone » May 14th, 2012, 12:49 pm

Thanks for your advice, all seems to have gone well. Now have to run it in properly.

Image
DSCN8286
On reflection maybe should have gone for a nickel cover, but the zebra looks pretty good with the new knobs.
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Postby EzraplaysEzra » May 14th, 2012, 2:19 pm

I hope it sounds as good as it looks. You know a couple black covers and a switch tip would really dress it up nice.
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Postby imalone » May 14th, 2012, 11:07 pm

That's a very good idea, exactly what it needs, it hadn't occurred to me to change the s/c covers. I'm going to have to open it up again anyway as Yamaha and IronGear apparently disagree over what hot means and some re-wiring is required (together with plenty of cursing).
It still sounds like me playing it though, much more difficult to upgrade that.
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Postby imalone » May 17th, 2012, 2:00 pm

You were right:
Image
In the process I've gotten very good at putting strings back on without changing them over the past couple of days.
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Postby EzraplaysEzra » May 17th, 2012, 2:54 pm

Looks classy duder. Very pro.
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Postby imalone » July 1st, 2012, 5:05 pm

Finally added this to the blog. Warning, very long.
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Postby imalone » August 11th, 2012, 9:28 am

imalone wrote: Wonder if I can get a set of rails in there.

Turns out the answer is yes:
Image
That's a set of IronGear Jailhouse Rails, with the addition of another push-pull (and another rambling blog post) it's possible to have neck with bridge or all three pickups in action. Sounds quite nice either way.
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