vet_ca wrote:My $0.02
All guitar necks, regardless of price or manufacturer, suffer from the same problems. 1)the necks are cylindrical and 2)there is a "hump" where the neck joins the body (other problems may also exist). The truss-rod cannot remove this body "hump" but it sure can worsen it. The best way to get tighter action is to have the neck re-machined by a known, good guitar luthier. This involves placing the neck/guitar in a neck jig and sanding the neck flat while sanding it into a "cone" shape (with various neck radius gauges) from it's original "cylindrical" shape. With these changes made the bridge and nut slots can be adjusted to give an action that allows the guitar to be played with your thumb completely off the back of the neck. Finally you need to select the proper frets and have them set and crowned properly. Now, if you play "hard" you'll occasionally hear a string "fart" but it will NOT rattle.
This machining is not cheap but it is extremely effective (tried and true). The key is to find a guitar tech that is familiar with the technique. If you get just anyone to do the job there's no telling what you'll end up with. Ask to both see and play some guitars the tech has set up this way.
With all due respect, I've read this five times and I still can't figure out what you are implying. I have a dozen guitars in my home at the moment and they all have "cylindrical" necks, I've never considered this a problem. I think it might be hyperbole to say ALL guitars suffer from a "hump" where the neck meets the body considering a quick audit of my guitars showed exactly 0.00% had any kind of hump affliction.
The best I can deduce from procedure you are describing is a neck reset and a fretboard re-profile. Two completely different and unrelated actions. A reset might be required if a set neck is no longer seated, an angle in the fretboard could be a symptom (a hump?). But this procedure would likely involve only the heel and the pocket. As far as sanding your neck flat and making it into a cone instead of a cylinder, I'm baffled. Could you possibly be referring to having a compound radius added to the neck? Wherein the final result would show a flatter board profile at the treble end from a progressively rounder profile at the nut. Compound profiles will not in itself allow a lower action.
I fear you may have fallen victim to a luthier who was either unscrupulous or completely loony. Whenever I hear a luthier or repairmen say "The problem with EVERY other guitar..." I know some attempt is being made to separate me and a large sum of money. I hope this isn't the case, the biggest problem with our modern age is the abundance of advice givers who impart some low form of knowledge and offer it as expert advice or services and it's further spread by people only trying to be helpful and heard in forums such as this. If you were victim to such a shamozzle, at least you are happy with the results.
I'm really not trying to infer that you have no idea what you are talking about or that your advice is void of any reasonable merit or credibility, I only found it a little confusing. Perhaps you could explain this further on a different thread.