My first acoustic guitar was an Epiphone PR350S, I think its a 1988. A couple of years ago, when i first started playing, I took it to a local guitar tech for a set-up and to add a bone saddle. When he gave it back to me he had sanded the top of the bridge down (without asking me....this does effect the look of the guitar since it is rosewood bridge that was dyed black), saying that he had to do this in order to get the right string action; there was only so much he said he could take off the bottom of the saddle.
Anyway, when he went to install the new sadddle, he realized that he needed to route a larger slot for it in the bridge. I had just started playing at the time so I really didn't know how to evaluate his work, but in hindsight, I'm wondering if his work has affected the sound of my guitar. The saddle slot is a bit wider than the saddle itself; by about 1/32 of an inch along th eentire length. The saddle appears to lean forward ever so slightly so that it is not perpendicular to the guitar's top.
Is this shoddy work, or am I being too critical? The guy is a pro who actually works out of a studio and does work for several prominent local bands. Is this something that would affect the tone of the guitar? I've since upgraded to a Guild Jumbo so there is no comparison there, but the Epi tone sounds a bit flat and thin. (there is also a pic of th enut which has a chunk missing from the bass end, so this obviously needs replacing.
Do I need to replace the bridge? If so, how difficult of a job is this? I certainly don't want to do it if I don't have to, but If I do, I may try it myself. I would be sad if I screwed it up, but nothing compared to screwing up my Guild.
Thanks for reading.
-B
It sounds like the tech was learning on the job - at your expense.
The top of the bridge didn't need sanding. If he'd taken everything he could off the bottom of the saddle (which is highly unlikely), sanding the bridge won't lower it any more - only routing the slot deeper will. Apparently he figured that out after the sanding part.
When the saddle tips in the slot, you're not getting maximum contact. The bottom of the saddle needs to perfectly match the bottom of the saddle slot to transfer the vibrations. It sounds like your options now are a wider saddle, a new bridge, or altering the existing saddle so the bottom edge mates fully with the saddle slot when the strings hold it at an angle (which is the toughest of the three options - the geometry has to be just right).
I don't know what the current rate is on a new saddle. The last time I had one done was about 20 years ago, at the (now defunct) Wooden Music shop in Chicago - a hand-carved rosewood bridge with installation and new strings was $75 then.
Guitar teacher offering lessons in Plainfield IL
I don't think I'd let that guy touch one of my guitars :?
"Work hard, rock hard, eat hard, sleep hard,
grow big, wear glasses if you need 'em."
-- The Webb Wilder Credo --
Yeah, he won't be working on any more guitars of mine, or anyone I know. He could probably tell that I was a newb and thought he'd see if he could get away with the botched job. He did. live and learn, right.
So, as a follow up question, I am considering trying to do the bridge replacement myself. It seems like martin replacement bridges are easier to come by (at places like Elderly) than an Epi bridge that matches my 1988 model. So, If I replace with a Martin bridge/saddle, my big question is this.....Is there a standard distance from pin to saddle on most acoustic guitars bridges? As a novice in this area, this seems to me to be the critical measurement. It would seem that if this distance is the same on the replacement bridge, then I could use the bridge pins to orientate the new bridge, and the saddle would end up in the same location so that intonation should be good. (the string spacing on th eMartin bridges does match my current bridge).
Any thoughts on this are greatly appreciated. I'm probably biting off a bit more than I can chew, but I'd like to learn, and I doubt I'll do any real permanent damage to the guitar.
Is there a standard distance from pin to saddle on most acoustic guitars bridges? As a novice in this area, this seems to me to be the critical measurement. It would seem that if this distance is the same on the replacement bridge, then I could use the bridge pins to orientate the new bridge, and the saddle would end up in the same location so that intonation should be good. (the string spacing on th eMartin bridges does match my current bridge).
The specs for the Martin-style replacement bridges, including distance from the peg holes to the front of the bridge, and the front of the bridge to the saddle slot, can be found here:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Acoustic_guitar_bridges/1/Acoustic_Bridges/Specs.html#details
You can measure the same distances on your Epi and compare it. The saddle slot is angled, obviously, but you should be able to get a usable estimate from that. I'd consider the slightly oversized version of the replacement bridge.
You've already confirmed the string spread matches that of the Epi, an important item.
But, why not just get a wider saddle and avoid the bridge replacement altogether? Cosmetically you should be able to stain the sanded part of the bridge to match, so a wider saddle may be all you need. Call Bob at guitarsaddles.com and tell him your story and see what he suggests.
Good luck!
"Everybody got to elevate from the norm."
Thanks for the link to those measurements!
A wider saddle is something to consider, but I have some concerns. This guy really mucked up the saddle slot. The channel is not even a consistent width. It doesnt vary greatly, but its still not consistent throughout, and that makes me wonder what the bottom of the channel looks like close-up.
I have seen Bob's site though, and it is very cool. I'm sure I'll be ordering something from him in the not too distant future.
As I understand things, if the bottom of the slot isn't smooth and flat that will have to be fixed before you do much anything else. For the saddle to transmit vibration from the strings to the body of the guitar there needs to be good solid contact between the saddle and the bottom of the slot.
You might find some handy object, say a crochet hook or something similar, to as a feeler to get a sense of whether the router bit (or whatever other implement this wood-butcher used) left a smooth bottom to the slot. The hope is that said wood-butcher was using a router and setting the bit depth in the usual way rather than freehanding it with a dremel tool or some such thing. If he frehanded it I'd say you're going to want to get an actual luthier with some actual skills have a go at making it right again.
