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Getting Knobs Off Push-Pull Pots

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(@hyperborea)
Prominent Member
Joined: 17 years ago
Posts: 827
Topic starter  

Does anybody have any advice for getting knobs off of a push-pull (or push-push) pot without causing the death of the pot? The last time I had to do this pulling the knob off (it was the standard press fit knob) also pulled the shaft out of the pot. In one case it came completely out and in another it was pulled up enough that the pot never really worked again. Any suggestions? Is a pot replacement in that case inevitable?

Pop music is about stealing pocket money from children. - Ian Anderson


   
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(@blue-jay)
Noble Member
Joined: 15 years ago
Posts: 1630
 

You tell it like it is. Replacement is almost inevitable.

I hope somebody has a better tip, or constructive, not destructive advice?

Generally, I wrap a thin rag around them and wiggle, gently if possible, pulling very lightly.

Like a bird on the wire,
like a drunk in a midnight choir
I have tried in my way to be free.


   
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(@lethargytartare)
Active Member
Joined: 15 years ago
Posts: 14
 

Hmmm -- I've never had a pp pot come apart from pulling the knob off, but it is certainly nerve-wracking. two things:

Best way to remove push-on knobs is with two wedge shims each with a notch in the middle to straddle the post. slide them under the knob from opposite sides. the two will gradually force the entire knob straight up with out any side-to-side pressure.

If you have very fine-point needle-nose pliers, you might be able to get them clamped on the shaft of the pot, then use one of the wedges described above, and slide it along the jaws of the pliers -- that will let you get pressure on the knob without pulling the shaft out of the pot.

Also, there should be a rim on the lower portion of the shaft that stops the downward motion of the shaft when it's pushed in. If you wedge something between THAT and the knob, you won't be pulling up on the shaft at all.

The real trick -- don't let the knob get jammed all the way down :-)


   
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(@gnease)
Illustrious Member
Joined: 20 years ago
Posts: 5038
 

if you successfully remove the knob, consider replacing it with a set screw version. to best do this, you may need to put a shim in a split-shaft's "split" so the set screw does not collapse the shaft.

-=tension & release=-


   
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(@hyperborea)
Prominent Member
Joined: 17 years ago
Posts: 827
Topic starter  

Thanks all for the feedback. I'll see what I can do about gently taking the knobs off using the advice above but I want to take care with the top (it's not a pickguard but a flame maple cap). I've got a pair of push-push pots as a backup in case. As for the set-screw knobs that's a good idea but it won't work since this is an LP style guitar with bell knobs and I don't think they come in set-screw style.

I'm still waiting on my Cream Duncan Triple Shots to arrive before I pull the wiring and rewire everything: Triple Shots for switching the P-Rails already in the guitar (and switched with the existing push-push switches); push-push switches for phase and series/parallel switching between the pickups. It's probably a bit cumbersome for live playing but I don't do that (yet) but it will be fun to play with for at least a while and hopefully educational about what tones I like the most.

Pop music is about stealing pocket money from children. - Ian Anderson


   
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(@greybeard)
Illustrious Member
Joined: 21 years ago
Posts: 5840
 

Ask at a decent computer shop if they have any key-top pullers. They have a lip that you put under the key top (on your computer keyboard) and lift it off. It should work on all knobs, with the possible exception of the "speed-knobs", used by Gibson, as they have straight sides that the key-puller can't deal with.

I started with nothing - and I've still got most of it left.
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(@rparker)
Illustrious Member
Joined: 20 years ago
Posts: 5480
 

Automotive technicians have a tool to pop the nylon push in holders. It slide in very flat, and then as you squeeaze the handle as you might a pair of pliers, the business end of the tool pushes into the metal of the door and away from the door into the back side of the door panel. This is so that they don't "rip" holes in the back side of the door panel, which is normally some compressed cardboard crud. I wonder if these would work.

Roy
"I wonder if a composer ever intentionally composed a piece that was physically impossible to play and stuck it away to be found years later after his death, knowing it would forever drive perfectionist musicians crazy." - George Carlin


   
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