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Oscar Schmidt OE40 Hollowbody Electric Guitar

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(@cenoslave)
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Joined: 19 years ago
Posts: 6
Topic starter  

Hi! I recently bought a Oscar Schmidt OE40 Hollowbody Guitar. It's my first jazz guitar, and I know pretty much nothing about setting it up. It has a floating bridge, with screws to raise and lower the action. I changed the strings on it as soon as i got it (the factory strings were crap), but i didn't really use my brain because i didnt think about the placement of the bridge when i did it. The intonation sounds pretty off now, and a few of the strings have a sort of buzz sound when i play them. My question is: does anyone know of a guide for setting up a guitar like this, or have any tips for a beginner? Im reluctant to just move the bridge around without any knowledge of what im doing, and im not sure where the action should be or how to get rid of the buzzing sound. Money's pretty tight right now, that's why i'd like to figure out how to do it myself instead of paying a tech. Thanks in advance for any tips you guys can give!


   
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 xg5a
(@xg5a)
Honorable Member
Joined: 19 years ago
Posts: 482
 

So is the bridge not attached to the body? If so, try putting at common lenghts from the nut(25.25", 24.5", ect...otuer people can help me remember common lengths). Anyways, try the intonation at each length, and find one where the intonation is good. The buzzing srtings are probably due to a low bridge. There should be thumbscrews at either side of the bridge. Turn them until the bridge is raised enough to eliminate the buzz. Let us know how it works...

One more thing-there are a lot of sites on the internet where you can find guides on how to set it up properly...


   
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(@cenoslave)
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Joined: 19 years ago
Posts: 6
Topic starter  

I've tried looking online on how to set up this kind of bridge, honestly i probably just dont know what to look for. As for the bridge, yes, it is not attached to the body; it's held in place only by the strings. Im assuming the measurements you gave are millimeters? Yes, there are thumbscrews on the sides of the bridge. I'll give that a shot. What would be the best way to go about moving the bridge? Should i just loosen the strings and have someone hold the bridge in place while i tighten them again so that it doesnt move back? Hope i dont sound too ignorant, and thanks so much for the advice, i'll let you know how it goes.


   
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(@greybeard)
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Joined: 21 years ago
Posts: 5840
 

The first thing to do is go to this page. You'll find a picture of the OE40. Start by placing the bridge as close to the position you see in the picture as possible.

You'll then need to intonate it. I'll start by getting you close, but you're going to need an electronic tuner for this.

Tune the open low E string exactly to E. Then fret at the 12th fret of the low E and check the result - it should also be an E. If the note is lower than E (flat), the bridge is too far away from the nut and if the note is higher than E (sharp), it is too near the nut. Move the bridge and repeat from the tuning the open low E, until both are correct.

The repeat the same thing for the high E.

The problem will be that, in moving the bridge for the high E will almost certainly move the bridge position for the low E.

It will mean that, when the high e is correct, you'll have to go back and redo each one until they are both correct. Plenty of trial and error, here, I'm afraid.[/url]

I started with nothing - and I've still got most of it left.
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(@cenoslave)
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Joined: 19 years ago
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Topic starter  

Sounds like a pain, but that helps immensly i think. i'll give that a shot. Thanks very much :D


   
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(@gnease)
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Joined: 20 years ago
Posts: 5038
 

Okay -- every guitarist should know this, as it will come in handy some time: the distance from the nut to the 12th fret is very close to the distance from the 12th fret to the bridge. However, because of the need to compensate for real world strings, this holds true only for the high e string and a wound G (unwound is too thick and needs compensation) and is somewhat close for the (wound) D. So start by placing the bridge so that the 12th fret is exactly half way between the nut's front edge and the high e string saddle. No need to guess the scale of the guitar.

After this, use a chromatic tuner to adjust the bridge position (and/or saddles if adjustable) to make the notes played on each string's 2nd fret the same as that played on the string's 14th fret (an octave higher). Don't use the popular "open string - 12th fret" or "12th fret and 12th fret harmonic" methods as these can be off due to nut height or placement issues.

-=tension & release=-


   
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(@cenoslave)
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Joined: 19 years ago
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Topic starter  

Ok, i didnt know that, thanks! I'll try it out.


   
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 xg5a
(@xg5a)
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Joined: 19 years ago
Posts: 482
 

Well, actually the measurements were in inches, but oh well...you seem to have all of the information you need now.


   
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(@cenoslave)
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Joined: 19 years ago
Posts: 6
Topic starter  

Thanks for all the help everyone! I think I got it pretty close (took a while, heh). I also raised the action a bunch and got rid of most of the buzzing. There's still a little left, but not very noticable. I don't think I want it any higher than it is now, so i'll have to live with it. Anyway, thanks again for all the help, it's very encouraging to a noob like myself.


   
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(@deaf-david)
Trusted Member
Joined: 19 years ago
Posts: 44
 

I'm no guitar tech, by any means, but I've picked up some helpful hints along the way:

* With a floating bridge (resonator buiscuit, archtop, or whatever) change one string at a time rather than removing them all at once. (I think you just learned this one the hard way.) I have been told to loosen all the strings a bit during this process, but I'm not sure it's really necessary.

* If the strings are buzzing, it may be that they jusr aren't seated into the notches in your bridge yet. Sometimes playing the thing will settle them in. Sometimes you need to pick up a set of needle files from the hardware store and smooth out any rough edges on the slots. (I've also been told that the notch should be half the thickness of the string that will set in it.)

* For the occassional string buzz that is going to happen, sometimes a bit of graphite in the bridge notches will help. The cheapo way of doing this is to gently rub a pencil lead across the string.

* With that guitar you shouldn't have to raise the action too much in order to control the buzzing. Hollow bodies/archtops have unique characteristics and need some special care on occassion. If you do leave the action high, you are set up for slide playing!

I have an Oscar Schmidt Delta King that is amazingly good for the price. I've played around with the model you have in a local guitar store. It is a much more solid instrument than my Delta King. Get it set up right and it ought to serve you well.

If it ain't true, it ain't blues.

http://www.soundclick.com/deafdavid


   
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(@cenoslave)
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Joined: 19 years ago
Posts: 6
Topic starter  

Im going to give the graphite a try, mostly because i like the action a little lower anyway. ;) Thanks for the all the useful info; there's a lot more to these guitars than i origanally thought before i bought it, and every little bit helps. Thanks!


   
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