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Removing Craft/"Model Car" Paint?

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(@mikecullen)
Estimable Member
Joined: 17 years ago
Posts: 82
Topic starter  

After working out a deal with a friend, im thinking of buying his PRS SE Soapbar II. I love the p-90s and its sounds/feels great. Yet for some strange reason, at some point my friend thought it would be a good idea to paint his guitar with Model Car craft paint!!!! Its oil based! :shock:

He mostly painted over stickers, as you can see by the spots where the finish is still perfect.

Could anyone reccomend ANYTHING to get this stuff off without totally killing the finish? I dont mind some scratches or even faded finish, i just want it to look better than it does now.

(Wouldnt you know it, I have four guitars that look great sound like dirt, and the one that sounds good looks like dirt!)

Thanks, Mike

"This is a public service announcement....with guitars!"


   
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(@timezone)
Estimable Member
Joined: 19 years ago
Posts: 205
 

If he mostly painted over stickers, it might be better to try to remove the stickers rather than try to remove the paint. I can't think of anything to get the bad paint off without also getting the good paint off. I think I would try "goo-gone" to lift the stickers. As always, test the stuff on an inconspicuous place (back of the guitar) before slathering it over the front. Worth a shot.

TZ


   
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(@ricochet)
Illustrious Member
Joined: 21 years ago
Posts: 7833
 

If the model car paint is fairly recent, it may soften up and come off with mineral spirits (Goo Gone) without that removing the original paint, but what the original paint is obviously makes a big difference in how resistant it is to solvents.

"A cheerful heart is good medicine."


   
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(@racetruck1)
Honorable Member
Joined: 18 years ago
Posts: 518
 

Lighter fluid should get the job done, try a little in an inconspicuios place to see if it affects the original finish. Should also remove the stickers also. If it doesn't affect the finish then dab some on just the paint, let soak to soften the paint and then scrape with a thin pick. Most SE's are finished with a poly type of finish and there's very little that will affect it.

When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather, not screaming......
like the passengers in his car.


   
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(@mikecullen)
Estimable Member
Joined: 17 years ago
Posts: 82
Topic starter  

If he mostly painted over stickers, it might be better to try to remove the stickers rather than try to remove the paint. I can't think of anything to get the bad paint off without also getting the good paint off. I think I would try "goo-gone" to lift the stickers. As always, test the stuff on an inconspicuous place (back of the guitar) before slathering it over the front. Worth a shot.

TZ

I've removed all the stickers already, whats left is what he painted on the actual body. I'll give all your methods a shot thanks!

EDIT: By the way the finish looks to me like a stain covered in clearcoat, not really paint at all. There's already parts where he tried to get it off and he's dulled the clearcoat, but that doesnt bother me much.

"This is a public service announcement....with guitars!"


   
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(@sgincyqx)
Honorable Member
Joined: 17 years ago
Posts: 404
 

Why would anyone do that to a PRS? :shock:

Ewan McGregor: I said, "Eve, I want you to look after my wedding ring while I'm away," and she started to cry and I said, "Eve. Eve, I can't wear my ring or I won't get laid on the trip!"


   
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(@citizennoir)
Noble Member
Joined: 17 years ago
Posts: 1247
 

Did you get the paint off yet????

As always, I have to agree with racetruck1.
The model car paint is very weak and I doubt that your friend preped the substrait (ie the original finish)
by sanding it lightly so the model paint sticks.

It may peel off in large sections because of that reason.

Lighter fluid should soften it up good enough.
If not, don't use anything harsher than enamel reducer (harsher would be Lacquer thinner - do not use this)
Scrape with a plastic Bondo spreader or even a softer more pliable squeege.
The original clearcoat should be of a catalized or urethane type finish - very thick and durable.
Do not let the removing fluid sit on it too long as it may soften up the original finish and it may never harden.
Do small areas at a time.
Remove all plastic parts or tape off everything very well.

After you get ALL of the model paint off, you may have to sand lightly with, I would say 1500 grit wet paper (use water)
and then bring the finish back to a gloss by using a light finishing compound and then polishing it with 3M imperial
hand glaze.

Ken

"The man who has begun to live more seriously within
begins to live more simply without"
-Ernest Hemingway

"A genuine individual is an outright nuisance in a factory"
-Orson Welles


   
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