so, suppose i had a guitar with the headstock broken clean off. I dont actually have one, but ive seen a ton of them for cheeeeap on ebay and thought i might try to perhaps fix one.
so basically, what kind of process would be involved in reattaching a broken-off headstock? what kind of tools might I need?
If it's a nice clean break, you can fix it with a tube of superglue and no tools. That's if it'll fit together nice and straight, with no gaps.
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."
A vice would help.
Who needs a signature?
I mean really...
It's almost always lyrics...
or a cliche...
or garbage about me...
Lets just save YOU from the pain, ok?
superglue? i thought titebond would be preferable.
how would i vise or clamp a snapped headstock?
With the cyanoacrylate stuff, you don't need a vise or clamp. Apply it to both sides, not quite out to the edge (or be ready to wipe/scrape extruded glue), and press the pieces together so they fit tightly. Hold them firmly in place for however long it takes for the stuff to bond. For most of the department store stuff, that's about 20-30 seconds. Then let it cure for a day before applying load to it. (As in stringing and tuning up.) The bond will be stronger than the wood, and you'd better get it lined up right the first time, because you won't be able to take it apart and do it over.
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."
are they selling them dirt cheap with broken headstocks then? and is that only on american ebay? as i can never find damaged guitars on the uk one
Epiphone LP Standard trn blue ltd edition
fender squire strat (heavily modified and re painted with WOA festival logo)
Trace Elliot Super Tramp Valve 100 Combo
digtech RP3.
ive found that if you put the word "luthier" in the search, or "luthier project," you get a ton of damaged instruments.
I haven't tried the superglue fix, so I can't comment on it's effectiveness. My concern would be it sets up so fast. With Titebond I have time to let the glue work into a break and be sure I've covered all surfaces. Also if I've clamped it and it isn't quite right I can loosen the clamps and adjust.
...but like I said I've never tried it. If Ricochet says it works, I believe him.
Make sure you get one that is a clean matching break from side to side.
I use Titebond II for most things, but for this one I'd use Titebond I and a web clamp. Or in a pinch I'd use bungie cords or bicycle inner tubes to hold it together.
I can tell you the number one cause of failure in putting these back together, messing with it before 24 hours is up.
+1 on the Titebond I (original) repair. Also, if the break is truly clean -- a highly unlikely "knife-like" cut -- then reinforcing wood inserts may be required to increase the bonding area.
-=tension & release=-
what's the difference between titebond I and titebond II?
and what's a web clamp?
thanks for all the info, btw. it's helpful. ive also found frets.com to be invaluable just for reading up on this kinda stuff.
Two has a little bit of flex to it. One doesn't.
A web clamp is like a clamp you would find holding down cargo in the back of a pickup truck.
The answer to all wood working glue questions (at least as they relate to Titebond products) can be found:
http://www.titebond.com/IntroPageTB.ASP?UserType=1&ProdSel=FaqTB.asp
"The music business is a cruel and shallow money trench, a long plastic hallway where thieves and pimps run free, and good men die like dogs. There's also a negative side." -- HST
you guys are all geniuses...seriously
