String gauge for resonators Mediums or Light gauge?
My Regal resonator came stock with light gauge D'Addario's.I'd like to put medium gauge on there,but I also tune it standard from time to time. My question(s) is would it hurt to put medium gauge strings on? Would it hurt the resonator if I tune it to standard with mediums? Would I need to have it set up for medium gauge strings? Or should I just stick with what the guitar came stock with?
Won't hurt a thing either way. Preferences vary. Most would prefer the mediums if slide is in the picture.
Which sort of Regal resonator (Tricone, spider or biscuit) are you talking about? Makes a difference when you talk about setup, as to how it's done. Usually you have to learn how to do your own setup, as the guys at the local shop will likely be clueless about a resonator. Fortunately, it's not rocket science. These things are very easy and fun to work on.
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."
I've got a spider model,roundneck. But I also like to tune it to standard tuning.I've heard people say that it's not a good idea to use mediums and tune it to standard tuning. I really don't know. Also,I have no clue on how to do my own set up,either.
on my National Model D sq. neck with spider bridge I have
EJ42 Phosphor Bronze
.016, .018, .026, .035, .045, .056.
I cannot say if they are medium or light.
I do know that with my tuning; high bass G; GBDGBD,
the tension feels great. I have nice ringing sustain.
I suppose a round neck could be different.
but I do use medium strings on my Martin acoustic.
one thing to remember with spider bridge string changing.
do one string at a time. the bridge has less chance of shifting.
That's silly, about not using mediums and tuning to standard tuning. Shouldn't hurt a thing unless you have a defective guitar.
For basic setup on a spider, I can only think of three things that can be adjusted.
The truss rod adjusts the same as on other guitars, and directions can be found on several pages on guitar setup. I'll suggest http://frets.com/ which is an acoustic guitar repair and setup site.
The spider-specific adjustments are two:
The intonation is adjusted by rotating the cone in the soundwell with the strings loosened, then tuning up and rechecking the intonation. The saddles will end up slanted slightly, about the same as the saddle on a typical acoustic guitar. Look at one to get an idea for a starting point. As with a typical acoustic, you won't get it perfect on all six strings, but you shoot for the best compromise. I always set the first and sixth strings to the have the twelfth fret note and twelfth fret harmonics the same.
The tension of the preload screw in the center of the bridge GREATLY affects the tone, volume and playing feel of the guitar. It's adjusted by passing a small screwdriver through the little hole in the center of the handrest. Carefully count the fractions of a turn as you unscrew it and feel the resistance. You'll feel it unload as it reaches the point where it's no longer clamping the bridge against the cone. Start screwing it in until you just start to feel the resistance as it begins to tighten. That's your "zero point." Tighten it a half turn and play it a while to get the feel. Then experiment with it at various points tighter and looser by 1/8 turn increments through a range from 1/4 turn to 1 full turn tight from that "zero point." You'll notice that the action rises and feels a liot "snappier" as you tighten the screw, and it sinks and the strings feel mushier as you loosen it. DON'T OVERTIGHTEN IT! You might strip the screw, break the spider bridge, or crush the cone. Leave it where you like it best.
That's it. If you can do these things, you can set up a spider reso. 8)
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."