Lubing my nut?

This might work:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/Tools_and_supplies:_String_slot_lubricant.html

Lube away! :lol:

I've used plain automotive wheel bearing and chassis grease with good success. It's not black and messy like the graphite stuff. I've also found it works just fine to dab a little light oil, like baby oil or sewing machine oil, on the strings where they pass through the nut slots. I always oil new strings (usually with olive oil) when I'm putting them on anyway, but occasionally they need a little extra help later.

In case the post about "Opening Up The Nut" disappeared into the Bermuda Triangle, it was about sawing the strings back and forth through the nut slots to "file" them open so they won't bind the strings. That helps a lot, and is easy to do!

Olive oil?

Yep.

Ah man, Guitar Grease is black and messy? I was going to buy me some of it....

Look at the picture. It appears to be either good old fashioned graphite grease, or "moly" grease (with molybdenum disulfide in it.) More likely the latter, I'd think nowadays.

Doesn't plain ol' graphite work?

As in pencil "lead". I have a vague recollection of seeing that recommended as a solution. Just sharpen up a soft pencil and rub it through the slots a few times I guess.

Sounds reasonable, or am I just dreaming that I read it suggested here somewhere??

Cheers Chris

Look at the picture. It appears to be either good old fashioned graphite grease, or "moly" grease (with molybdenum disulfide in it.) More likely the latter, I'd think nowadays.

Yeah - It says graphite lubricant on the webpage. I don't think I would want to use that, so I retract my recommendation... :lol:

@ Ricochet

Why do you oil the strings when you put them on, and why do you use olive oil?

Doesn't plain ol' graphite work?

Apparently it does. :)

I Googled it and found numerous guitar sites recommending using plain old soft pencil lead (which is actually graphite, not lead at all) to lubricate the slots in the nut.

Cheers, Chris.

When I asked about these products at Guitar Center last year, I decided that I am NOT going to spend that much money for some relabelled and over priced cheap lubricant with a gimmick name. Furthermore it seemed nasty and low tech.

Way back in the old days, when I was a kid, we used 'pencil lead' which is GRAPHITE. I can't imagine us at that age, like maybe 15, around 1965, realizing that we actually needed graphite, so the idea must have come from the father of one of my friends who was a muscian/guitar player, probably going back to the 1930's and 1940's, so that idea must go way back.

My neighbor had a very small spray can of Slick 50 TEFLON lubricant. That is more high tech. I sprayed some on a cotton tip swab and applied it. This way it would not get on the finish or on the tuners, etc.
It seemed to work well and I thought about buying some. The can is very small about twice the size of a butane cigarette lighter or smaller.

I also thought about using silicone lubricant. Be careful about how you apply these things though.

HEY, I just now noticed that the idea about pencil lead was already posted. That has to be an old timer method

The problem I'm encountering is going out of tune after doing bends. I guess this is par for the course, but I'm hoping that perhaps I can alleviate the problem somewhat. Also, what is the opinion on roller nuts, or other types of materials. This is on a Godin Freeway Classic.

Thanks much.

You (and I) might want to take a refresher course in how to wind a string correctly on a tuner to eliminate any slip. Too many winds can cause it or not having the string locked in properly, so they say. This is very quick to read, with photos:

http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/stringing.htm

I am going to be upgrading a few electric guitars and going to get the best quality "Locking Tuners" that I can find- WHEN I get enough money for those projects.

@ Ricochet

Why do you oil the strings when you put them on, and why do you use olive oil?I oil the strings because:
a) It makes them slick. They slide smoothly in the nut slots with less binding, making precise tuning easier, and they hold tuning better.
b) Slick strings slide more smoothly, with a slide, with fingers, or when bent across the (also lubricated) fretboard. They just feel better.
c) They last MUCH longer than unoiled strings. What kills strings is tarnish and corrosion. That microscopic film of olive oil slows the oxidation way down.

Why olive oil?
a) I have it handy.
b) It's nice and slick.
c) It doesn't dry to a solid gum like other vegetable oils.
d) I was already using it on my fretboard, because of the above reasons, and because...
e) It's not a solvent, as mineral oils are. It won't attack any finish, glue, or the lignin that binds the wood fibers together. I know many people have used mineral oils (like "lemon oil") for many years on their guitars without problems. But I've taken apart many old guns on which the repeated application of mineral oil has caused the wood to become soft and punky. Guitars aren't as durable as other instruments like violins and have relatively short useful lifespans, but why push your luck? Also, I had been used to using olive oil to lubricate the key of my plastic bodied Aulos tenor recorder for the last 15 years. It was recommended by the maker, as mineral oil might attack the plastic.
f) It works.

I have no doubt that all the other string, fretboard and nut lubricants that have been made and recommended work perfectly satisfactorily, too. I'm just relating what's worked for me, and why I use what I do.

@ phangeuax: New guitar, I haven't changed the strings (yet). I just purchased a set of Elixars, so I will be into string changing soon.

@ ricochet: How do you coat the strings? Do you moisten a cloth, and wipe the strings before you install them?