I have an old acoustic guitar (1973 Guild D-40) that I've been playing since 1990. Last year I had the neck re-set because the action was getting really high. The bridge and saddle had been taken down as much as they could over the years to lower the action, so I had them replaced to get the string/saddle up to a normal height. When I got it back I noticed that the bridge piece (the wooden part) was much thicker than the old one and the saddle does not stick up very high out of it. Nonetheless the string action/height was quite good.
However, over the past year the action has gotten a little higher again, due to the neck moving a little The problem I am having is that there is very little saddle showing above the bridge, so I cannot shave anything off the bottom of the saddle.
It seems to me that they should have put a thinner bridge with more saddle showing in order to give me some room for adjustment down the road, but I can't really do anything about that now.
Anyway, I am wondering if I can shave the top of the bridge down to expose more of the saddle, thus allowing me to lower the saddle more? I am assuming I can since it was done on the last bridge as a fix for high action before the neck re-set, but when I suggested this to a guitar repair guy, he thought I was crazy. I assume there is a minimum insertion depth required for the saddle in the slot in the bridge? If I am getting below that, is it a big deal to make the saddle slot deeper?
I am a pretty competent woodworker, so I am comfortable with the idea of doing the filing, I'm not sure how to go about deepening the slot (I envision a pretty involved jig and a router and I'm not too keen on doing that to the guitar myself) but I want to know if this is something that is ever actually done. I don't know what else to do to be able to lower the saddle.
Thanks for any input.
in my limited experiance the bottom of the bridge was always sanded/shaved to lower it evenly.
#4491....
in my limited experiance the bottom of the bridge was always sanded/shaved to lower it evenly.
Just to be clear, I'm talking about the wooden bridge that is glued to the soundboard, not the saddle that sits in the bridge. I'd have to un-glue/re-glue the bridge in order to be able to shave the bottom.
I'd need quite a bit more info: does the guitar have a truss rod? How much relief is in the neck currently. What is the action at the 12th fret currently.
Do you have any pics you could post?
in my limited experiance the bottom of the bridge was always sanded/shaved to lower it evenly.
Just to be clear, I'm talking about the wooden bridge that is glued to the soundboard, not the saddle that sits in the bridge. I'd have to un-glue/re-glue the bridge in order to be able to shave the bottom.
right you are, i just assumed you meant the "saddle"
if it can't be sanded, then i would ask a luthier in your area to suggest a coarse of action. removing the bridge from the top seems like overkill.
#4491....
A little clarification- I'm not an expert, but it seems to me that one course of action might be to remove the saddle, sand down the top of the bridge (so, when you put it back, more of the saddle will be exposed) so that you can then adjust the saddle in the usual way. (Sanding down from the bottom.) It SEEMs to me that this could work, without being too dramatic or intrusive...IF string height at the bridge is really the problem.
But you've made reference to the NECK moving. If the bridge wasn't a problem, and then the neck is what changed, I'm not sure this can really be fixed by adjusting the bridge. What exactly happened to the neck? If it "moved" in the joint where it's set to the body, I think you've got a problem with how the neck is set- and you're out of my league in terms of fixing it. See a pro, or at least somebody who knows more than me! :roll:
This doesn't seem too likely, though- when you say the neck "moved," has it changed in relief? (Probably curved forward more?) If this is the case, and it's common ime, then you really want to address the relief (curvature in the neck), not the bridge height, if at all possible. Does this guitar have a truss rod? If it does, and if neck relief is what's changed, I think that's where your solution probably lies. (Though if the bridge is too high, I think you can adjust it)
If it doesnt' have a truss rod...then you'd have to address the neck relief by...anyone? anyone? Bueller? (I have absolutely NO idea how you adjust neck relief on a guitar without a truss rod. By doing something too complicated for me, probably.)
Best,
Ande
The relief of the neck is fine. The action at the 12th fret is too high. Could not tell you what it is exactly, but it is too high, certainly higher than it was a year ago. When I say the neck moved, I mean it is tilted up slightly. The relief of the neck has not changed.
I don't need an analysis of the rest of the guitar, I know I need to lower the strings at the bridge, my question is if I can do what I was contemplating doing: Shaving the top of the bridge down to expose more saddle so I can lower it.
Thanks.
I wouldn't shave down the top of the bridge, instead use a .056 file to file small niches in the hole where the bridge pins are placed, so that the over wrap has a lower connection point before it hits the bridge, do this to all of the holes and you'll be able to lower your bridge. Hope this helps.
Psychedelic Rock Trio - www.myspace.com/lengrandband
Also, feel free to message me with any guitar repair or set up questions. :)
Also, if the neck was set at the wrong angle like the post above, you would either have to take it down or shim the neck pocket to set it at the right angle.
Psychedelic Rock Trio - www.myspace.com/lengrandband
Also, feel free to message me with any guitar repair or set up questions. :)
I wouldn't shave down the top of the bridge, instead use a .056 file to file small niches in the hole where the bridge pins are placed, so that the over wrap has a lower connection point before it hits the bridge, do this to all of the holes and you'll be able to lower your bridge. Hope this helps.
I appreciate the suggestion. However, it is not going to help the problem that the saddle is not sticking high enough above the bridge to take it down. What you are suggesting will solve the issue of the string behind the saddle, but not in front of the saddle. If I shave the saddle down, the higher strings will be resting on the front of the wooden bridge, not the saddle.
The question I would still like to get answered is how much saddle needs to be in the saddle slot? Put another way, what is the minimum insertion depth?
The question I would still like to get answered is how much saddle needs to be in the saddle slot? Put another way, what is the minimum insertion depth?
Maybe I misunderstood this but, the "minimum insertion depth" is enough for the saddle to allow the strings to pass over the frets. If I could see this, it would be easier to solve. I wouldn't shave down the top of the bridge, because everything in an acoustic instrument is suppose to vibrate to sound properly. Just like acoustical violins, cellos, violas, basses..
Shaving down the top of the bridge will provide a different tone in your instrument. Perhaps the neck is on at the wrong angle, which would explain the reason why your saddle has to be so low.
Psychedelic Rock Trio - www.myspace.com/lengrandband
Also, feel free to message me with any guitar repair or set up questions. :)
The question I would still like to get answered is how much saddle needs to be in the saddle slot? Put another way, what is the minimum insertion depth?
Maybe I misunderstood this but, the "minimum insertion depth" is enough for the saddle to allow the strings to pass over the frets. If I could see this, it would be easier to solve. I wouldn't shave down the top of the bridge, because everything in an acoustic instrument is suppose to vibrate to sound properly. Just like acoustical violins, cellos, violas, basses..
Shaving down the top of the bridge will provide a different tone in your instrument. Perhaps the neck is on at the wrong angle, which would explain the reason why your saddle has to be so low.
Sorry, I'm not explaining properly. By minimum insertion I mean how much of the saddle needs to be in the slot?
I know shaving the the bridge could change the tone slightly, but I don't know that it would make it any worse. The bridge on there now is WAY thicker (higher) than the old one, anyway.
The neck has moved slightly since I had it reset, there is no doubt of this. There is nothing I can really do about that now, and I am not about to re-set it again if I can solve the issue on the saddle end.
my question is if I can do what I was contemplating doing: Shaving the top of the bridge down to expose more saddle so I can lower it.
Are you planning on re-finishing the bridge if you do this, or just leave the freshly shaved wood raw?
I wrapped a newspaper ’round my head
So I looked like I was deep
You could have a look at Frank Ford's site (well known local master luthier in Silicon Valley) - http://frets.com/
He's got a lot of info about acoustic stringed instruments and guitars in particular. This page has some nice discussion and photos of bridges and saddles. It's mostly about lowering saddles but it looks like it might provide some help.
Pop music is about stealing pocket money from children. - Ian Anderson
...I don't need an analysis of the rest of the guitar, I know I need to lower the strings at the bridge...
Well, you started by saying you wanted to make the saddle slot deeper, but later said you were trying to address the case where the strings would start hitting the wood of the bridge. So, since you feel you know the solution, just do it. Take the saddle out, make a new one out of some hard wood, shave down the top of the existing bridge 1/16th of an inch, put in the new saddle, adjust, check, repeat.
I think this is the wrong way to go about addressing the issue, but if you're committed to doing something to the bridge, that's how I'd go at it. AFAIK the only requirement of the saddle slot is that it hold the saddle and prevent it from tipping over. You could just as easily grind it flat, and glue a proper-height dowel there and, assuming you intonated it properly, it would be fine.
