I searched all over this forum and on google but to no avail, so I'm posting my own thread. Here's the scenario:
On my '83 Les paul studio, I've been fooling around with the saddles to improve intonation, and while I having it sounding better than ever, I had to make so many adjustments to my E string (6th) that the screw for that saddle is stripped and I can't move it. Some of the others are scraped up as well but are usable. So here are my questions:
1) I noticed Stew Mac offers replacement screws. From what I see I have the new type of Gibson bridge so how exactly does one go about replacing a saddle screw?
and secondly
- Is there any sort of flat head screwdriver thats more equipped to handle the job of adjusting saddle screws so I don't end up stripping more screws in the future?
Thanks in advance.
- Mike
So what your saying,is that the "head" of the saddle screw where the flat blade screw driver fits,is stripped?
Looking for the Perfect Tone
Are you loosening the strings before you adjust the screws? I'm having a hard time envisioning that they would be so hard to turn that you would be stripping the head if you are loosening the strings first.
Life's journey can be hard at times, but you have to realize that you are the only one with the power make it a worthwhile experience.
Loosen the string and basically unscrew the screw till it's clear of the little saddle piece, then put the new screw in there. I have one on a '76 LP that snapped completely - mostly due to corrosion. The saddle's in the right place so I just leave it.
I wasn't loosening the strings when I was making the adjustments because I was just doing a tweak here and a tweak there, what harm could it do? Now I know.
On some guitars it's easier because the break-angle of the string over the bridge/saddles to the tailpiece is shallower, but at least with a 'Paul, it's a pretty hard angle if you have the tailpiece screwed all the way down. I have mine a little higher up so the string clears the back edge of the bridge (so you don't have that angle, plus the angle from there to the tailpiece), but it's still a little steep.
It's a bit of a pain though, but...I had a Rick 4001 bass where you had to use an S-shaped screwdriver to do the saddle adjustments, and that even wasn't very effective. I'd have to loosen the string and actually take the string out of the tuning machine so I could pull it up and out of the way before I could make the adjustment.
Good luck with the replacements. I was actually thinking of doing that with my LP too - except probably go with new saddles and screws, since the saddles are all bumpy with corrosion 'carbuncles' and really worn.
Naw, maybe just the screws because new saddles would make the rest of the bridge look 'uneven' and then a new bridge would make the tailpiece look off, and then on an on.
I don't really like gold hardware that much ;)
