I finally got around to fixing that les paul of mine.
I made a few changes. I decided just to bypass the tone and volume. I also didn't bother hooking up the neck pickup because I never use it. I just rigged up the selector switch to work as an on/off.
It hums like a mofo now. I think the problem is the lack of grounding. 2 years ago, when I tore the guitar apart, I ripped out the wire that went to the bridge. So I figured I's just use a steel screw as a ground. I dont think its working. Also, everything is grounded at the same spot, which I think might also cause problems.
It works, but that DAMN HUM ARRRRGHH !!!
, I ripped out the wire that went to the bridge.
You need that wire from the bridge. That grounds the bridge and strings.
"Everybody got to elevate from the norm."
, I ripped out the wire that went to the bridge.
You need that wire from the bridge. That grounds the bridge and strings.
+1 It's essential.
-=tension & release=-
I learned a trick. run a ground wire to all the pots. I did and my lap steel is quiet as a mouse, but roars like a lion.
I learned a trick. run a ground wire to all the pots. I did and my lap steel is quiet as a mouse, but roars like a lion.
But of course, that won't do anything until he reconnects the pots ...
-=tension & release=-
Is that carbon shielding paint throughout the cavity? If it then what is the black stuff over the body of the guitar? Did it live through a fire?
If it is shielding paint then running a screw into the body won't provide much of a connection to it for grounding the shielding. The pots will get a decent contact to the shielding paint because they touch it with a greater surface area. However, your switch may not be connected all that well since the shielding paint around it is worn away in a circle - may mean poor connection. On my guitar which I did a carbon shielding paint mod the resistance through the paint is only about 15 ohms - this is fine for shielding. I use separate wires for the signal ground though.
Pop music is about stealing pocket money from children. - Ian Anderson
oh, this guitar is a giant mural dedicated to someone I know that passed away a few years ago.
I've vowed to do all work on this one myself.
And first thing tomorrow, I'm going to pry out the.... bridge thingie.... and re-run that wire.
Is that carbon shielding paint throughout the cavity? If it then what is the black stuff over the body of the guitar? Did it live through a fire?
If it is shielding paint then running a screw into the body won't provide much of a connection to it for grounding the shielding. The pots will get a decent contact to the shielding paint because they touch it with a greater surface area. However, your switch may not be connected all that well since the shielding paint around it is worn away in a circle - may mean poor connection. On my guitar which I did a carbon shielding paint mod the resistance through the paint is only about 15 ohms - this is fine for shielding. I use separate wires for the signal ground though.
The jack will touch the shield paint -- unless that too is worn away. But consider that in this case, the one pup connects directly to the output jack -- even if stopping "briefly" at the switch (only acting as a terminal strip), so no shielding is necessary, as most of the signal is contained within coax.
-=tension & release=-
Is that carbon shielding paint throughout the cavity? If it then what is the black stuff over the body of the guitar? Did it live through a fire?
If it is shielding paint then running a screw into the body won't provide much of a connection to it for grounding the shielding. The pots will get a decent contact to the shielding paint because they touch it with a greater surface area. However, your switch may not be connected all that well since the shielding paint around it is worn away in a circle - may mean poor connection. On my guitar which I did a carbon shielding paint mod the resistance through the paint is only about 15 ohms - this is fine for shielding. I use separate wires for the signal ground though.
The jack will touch the shield paint -- unless that too is worn away. But consider that in this case, the one pup connects directly to the output jack -- even if stopping "briefly" at the switch (only acting as a terminal strip), so no shielding is necessary, as most of the signal is contained within coax.
Yeah, that's probably right - the signal is mostly all in coax so no need to ground the controls. However, I'm not sure from that picture if the coax shields are grounded. I also wonder if the ground from the jack is only connected to that screw which is then barely connected to the carbon shield paint which then barely connects to the switch.
Also, on an LP the jack won't (or shouldn't) touch the shield ground. The jack sits in a plastic cover plate which insulates it from the shielding and most people don't bother to paint the jack cavity anyways.
Pop music is about stealing pocket money from children. - Ian Anderson
Yeah, that's probably right - the signal is mostly all in coax so no need to ground the controls. However, I'm not sure from that picture if the coax shields are grounded. I also wonder if the ground from the jack is only connected to that screw which is then barely connected to the carbon shield paint which then barely connects to the switch.
If the coax is reasonably intact from pup to jack, it only needs a one point connection to the body/string ground. In this configuration, I would solder the string ground to the jack ground/cold side or to the coax braids where the pup and jack coaxes are "spliced" at the switch. That should take care of it.
Also, on an LP the jack won't (or shouldn't) touch the shield ground. The jack sits in a plastic cover plate which insulates it from the shielding and most people don't bother to paint the jack cavity anyways.
You are absolutely correct -- LPs typically have plastic jack plates, and even a metal one would require a "wrap" of the carbon paint through the hole to the outer edge of the body on which a metal plate would rest. Not likely, is it?
-=tension & release=-
