:lol: Not off topic at all!
That one doesn't look like it will need as much work as the one I have though.
Which btw, I recorded a quick sound clip. I'll post it in a few.............
I posted the sound clip in the "Hear Here" section, found here. Here is direct link to the sound clip so you don't have to go forum hopping.
Gear: Vee Wee > EQ > TS-9 > Marshall Mini Stack
Note: the Vee Wee is straight out of the box. The only thing I did was tune it and raise the pup a little.
Anyone know where I can get a 1 piece replacement bridge for this thing? A strat bridge is the only thing I can seem to find and that looks to big.
Thanks,
Mike
You might have a look here:
http://www.wdmusic.com/bridges_and_tailpieces_231_ct.htm
Are you trying to get more height on the bridge?
That clip sounds pretty good by the way.
Are you trying to get more height on the bridge?
Well, one of the sites I was looking at said you should move all the saddles forward, I don't even have saddles. There are just lines popping out of the bridge and they're not all in-line.
I think I could get away with the one I have and just raise the nut, but I saw a Custom Shop Tele bridge that might work. More for the look than anything else. But, without having the two together, it's hard to tell.
Here's a pick of the Tele bridge I was eyein' - (Chrome)
Oh, thanks for commenting on the clip. I might keep the pup. Well, it'll stay for now anyway until I get better and know what I want for sound. Thanks for the link too. Finally, a site with them all in one place!
Kinda cool bridge there.
Anyhow, as far as moving the saddles forward (or back) like you were going to compensate the string lengths: if you're going to play it as a lap steel, you actually don't have to compensate the saddles at all. Unless...what you've read says the saddles should all be lined up in a straight line? I know that actual lap steels just have a straight bar, or raised ridge for the saddle because, since you're not pressing the strings down to the frets, they won't go out of tune so to speak.
Basically, unless someone else comes along with better info, I'm thinking you could probably just leave the saddles as-is and there won't be a problem. I mean, I guess technically they should all be lined up but I think the difference won't be noticeable.
It would be good to be able to raise each string so the tops of all the strings are dead-level with each other, though. That way when you lay the steel bar or slide across the strings, they're all contacting the bottom of the steel equally and won't buzz or rattle. Of course, if you press the bar a little firmer against the strings then the thick ones will push down until they're level with the thinner strings, but then it might be slightly like bending notes on a regular guitar; they'll go just a teeny bit sharp.
--in which case, I'm thinking you should leave the back and forth compensation of the saddles the way they are.
Weird: I never thought about that.
But as I said earlier, the difference in pitch and whatnot may not even be noticeable.
That's one of the differences between setting up a regular guitar and one meant for lap steel type playing: with the regular guitar, common practice is to set the nut and the saddles so they conform to the curve of the neck/frets, or even on guitars with flat fretboards, you set the bottoms of the strings to be equal distance from the frets. In the case of lap steel type setup, the strings are set so that the tops of the strings are level because the steel bar is level.
Seen edge-on the strings on a normal guitar would be oO (with the bottoms even), and on a lap steel it would be, well, I can't really draw it, but...upside-down from that.
I'll have to find the article again, but I think is was just to have the saddles all straight and up front. I don't know. :?
Here's a pic of my bridge (sorry about the quality, but you should be able to see what I'm talking about) -
And yeah, the nut is hurtin' on this thing! I can hear an echo if I talk to close to it! :shock:
Loni Specter of Lapdancer Guitars makes a cool lap steel replacement bridge for Teles, the "Big Ass Bridge", it kinda illustrates what works best,- just a solid piece of steel with no compensation back/forth/up/down...
If you're stuck with a bridge that has some compensation built into it then it's no big deal really, your playing will soon adjust to it...
Steinar
PS - "Bid donkey Bridge"??? :shock: That should have been "Big A$$ bridge". :lol:
PS - "Big donkey Bridge"??? :shock: That should have been "Big A$$ bridge". :lol:
Yeah, I thought that would have been a weird name. :lol:
Thanks for the help everyone! It will take some time to get everything. I'll post a before and after when I'm done, whenever that will be. Hopefully soon.
I bought a new nut (I'll put the extender on hold till I see how this one goes), bridge and strings tonight.
I love projects! :D
That and more at 11.............
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Edit: Alright I'm late. All done. This thing is sweet! The left wing is perfect for resting your arm.
New nut shimmed -
Bridge -
Epi - Flying Vee Wee living a new and eventful life -
Yeah I know, I suck at photography too. :lol:
I can tell I'm going to have a lot of fun with this thing! 8)
That's a cute little thing!
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."
