What size strings

Buy a set in the one packet rather than single strings. That way you get a balanced set of sizes. The pack will be described as 10's or 11's or 12's or something like that.

Which to get depends on what you want to do. If you're doing large amounts of lead work, then get a set of 10's. If you're doing lots of downtuned riffs, get 13's so that they don't flap about so much at the low tension. If you're playing chords only, then 11's will be fine.

There are lots of manufacturers, and if you get 20 replies to your question you'll get 37 different recommendations for string makes. I use Rotosound because I think they're the best on the planet and you get a free 1st string in case you break one, but you'll find lots of support here for Martins and D'Addario.

Best,

A :-)

Most electrics,( from my own experience)seem to come with 9s on them (not always true bust most I have played around with) I prefer 10s myself on an electric. ( mainly because I play mostly acoustic and prefer a stiffer string)

Musical style also plays a big consideration. If you're playing blues or jazz you'll want beefier strings to give a fuller tone. Thinner strings tend to be brighter in sound at the same tonal values, and work better for rock or metal work.

If you are just begining to play I would suggest 9's. They are thinner and easier to fret. As you develope finger strength and callouses on your fingers you can move up through the sizes. Once again it all depends on personal tastes, music and playing styles.

You must also take into consideration your guitar set up. If it was set up with 9's and you slap on 11's or 12's you might get some fret buzz or find intonation problems. (not sure about this but others will chime in).

There are numerous brands out there. The majority falling within the same price range. Some sets can run double the norm. Are they worth it? Once again, personal preference will rule.

Have fun finding the one's that are right for you.

Michael

You must also take into consideration your guitar set up. If it was set up with 9's and you slap on 11's or 12's you might get some fret buzz or find intonation problems. (not sure about this but others will chime in).

Indeed. It is probably set up for 9's, so 9's or 10's will msot likely be fine for it. I'm a D'Addario man myself, although I havn't tried many other brands, thats just what I've been using, and they have been great to me. I'd recomend 10's to the average person, good for just about everything.

If you've got a floating bridge, you most likely will want to stick with the gauge you've got on it now, or you'll need to have the intonation adjusted. If it's a fixed bridge, then you can probably change the gauge pretty easily.

In either case, if you take the guitar with you when you buy strings, they can measure the string gauge for you and you can proceed from there.

no clue how much this will help but i'm gonna chime in (thank you Jose Cuervo)

here is what my guitars are strung with and the adjustments i had to make....

Fender Nashville Telecaster - Fender 11's. had to adjust the neck slightly and make a few intonation adjustments

1980's Ibanez RoadStar with Floyd Rose Style Trem - i use GHS 10's. it had 9's. never again will i put anything else on it. it was a hassle to set up for a different gauge. so now it's always gonna be 10's. i had never set up a floyd though. nor do i ever want too.

Epiphone SG - GHS 11's. it had 9's when i got it. see tele above. slight relief and intonation adjustments

Ibanez GAX 70 - 13's when they have them . it is set up for slide. so it was big strings and high action.

70's Takamine 12 string acoustic - 9's. light and sound good

Washburn D-10 acoustic - Martin 12's. it had 11's when i got it and i didn't need to make any adjustments

Yamaha acoustic - 11's. it had 10's when i got it and like the Washburn no adjustments were needed

don't know if that will help...maybe i just wanted to rant about my guit-fiddles and gear....but those are the strings i use

I think waltaja's post bears out everyone else's experiences:

Fixed bridge - little or no problem in changing gauges (unless it's a big step, that might need the truss rod adjusting and/or saddle height looking at)

Floating bridge (other than Floyd-Rose) - May need truss rod adjusting for large change in gauge. Intonation will almost certainly need looking at, due to change in tension of strings (could also need more/fewer springs, harness screws adjusting, saddle height adjusting on low actions)

Floyd-Rose - same as Floating bridge just far more hassle

Greybeard summed it up in far less words than myself. on my fixed bridge electrics that aren't slide (Tele and SG) i went from 9's to 11's. fairly good sized jump so i had to compensate. however i notice a much better tone, so it was worth it. the roadstar ibanez though...ugh...like i said no flyd type experience. i just winged it. i could do it again, but wouldn't care too. as for the acoustics...perhaps i lucked out? they plyed good after switching gauges, but it was a gauge up. from 10's to 11's and from 11's to 12's