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G7th Capo- am I just being heavy handed?

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(@shadyharrison)
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Joined: 17 years ago
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Topic starter  

Hi, all.

"Santa" got me a g7th capo for Christmas, and I'm finding it really hit and miss for not making the strings buzz. I'm not sure whether I'm just being too heavy handed with my performance model, but it doesn't seem to give that great a performance. I've managed to get it to sit straight twice, and then it's pretty good, but otherwise, it's a no-goer. Any advice?

Thanks,

Shady

Take care,

Casey


   
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(@joehempel)
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Joined: 16 years ago
Posts: 2415
 

You know, I have the same problem with my capo, I just thought my guitar needed a setup, but it did that with 2 different guitars, I think I'll just have to get another one.

In Space, no one can hear me sing!


   
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(@anonymous)
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Joined: 17 years ago
Posts: 8184
 

i don't know if you're doing this, but you don't put the capo directly on the fret. you put it between the frets. you don't even want to get it too close to the fret, or it'll pull everything a little sharp.


   
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(@shadyharrison)
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Joined: 17 years ago
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Topic starter  

So- if I wanted to capo 3rd fret, I'd put it right in the middle? GREAT! Thanks. :D

Take care,

Casey


   
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(@anonymous)
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yes, between the 2nd and 3rd fret.


   
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(@joehempel)
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Interesting I was under the impression that you needed to put it as close to the fret as possible without actually putting in on the fret.

In Space, no one can hear me sing!


   
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(@davidhodge)
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Joined: 16 years ago
Posts: 4472
 

Just like a person's fingering, it varies not only from guitar to guitar but also from capo to capo. With a Kyser, for instance, almost being on top of the fret works well (at least with the many guitars I've used one on) but the G7 capo seems to work better in the "middle-to-two-thirds-closer-to-the-body-in-the-fret" position. Also with the G7, it really helps to get used to the clamping action. It's easy to think you've got it on when it's still a bit slack. A very firm pressing helps.

Peace


   
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(@gnease)
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Joined: 20 years ago
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As David explains, different capo models will work best in different places on different guitars. You will need to experiment a bit to optimize. Also make sure your capo actually will work with your guitar -- there are good and not-so-good capo-guitar match-ups. This is especially true for capos with harder rubber. Harder rubber capos need to have a curve that more closely matches the radius of the guitar's fretboard. Softer rubber capos are more universal in that they will work with a wide variety of guitars, but these capos also require significant tension to "get" all strings, and can be very finicky.

-=tension & release=-


   
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(@joehempel)
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After messing around with my capo a bit, I found that the soft rubber of it was just sort of loosening up and wasn't putting as much pressure on the strings as it should. Once I let it rest a bit, it seemed to work pretty well again.

In Space, no one can hear me sing!


   
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(@gnease)
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Joined: 20 years ago
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that's not right, Joe. a capo shouldn't need to "rest up" unless maybe it was clamping in a very wrong manner or been exposed to extreme temperatures. maybe the too-close-to-fret you described above was causing excessive stress on the capo ... but even that is surprising. G7?

-=tension & release=-


   
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(@joehempel)
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I myself have a quick change capo, not sure the brand, but it wasn't very expensive.

I think that maybe my keeping the capo stored on the headstock of the guitar might have done a bit of damage to it with the tension

In Space, no one can hear me sing!


   
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