removing string trees

if you are a whammy (trem) user, it will eliminate one common cause of post-whammying failure to return to tuned pitch. also applies to aggressive string bending. (this would be irrelevant for locking nuts, as string trees wouldn't really serve any purpose in that case.)

sans tree strings, the open string timbre may change a bit for the higher strings, as the angle over the nut will be fairly shallow. totally a personal pref.

There is a negative to removing your string trees, it changes the angle from the nut to the tuner. The nut is cut for the specific angle for the string trees. It can cause your intonation to go out. After time the string will re-cut the nut to the new angle, if you go back to the string trees you can get a harmonic type ring or chime, not a good noise.

If you play hard, another problem is that the high E string will easily jump out of the nut.

Just my personal opinion, but I would leave the string trees right where they are, no matter what Yngwie does. :roll:

ok thanks for clearing that up. I thought it worth asking cos I've found a lot of Yngwie's modifications to actually be quite sensible - for me at least (its all a matter of preference of course). I must say this one is no exception. But I don't think I'd be doing it anytime soon as I frankly cant be bothered with the hassle of intonation issues...I mean I've just had a new nut put in so I don't wanna be dealing with any of that.

I'm still a bit puzzled though. I mean, if removing them would improve tuning stability after agressive bending and whammy bar use, why do they ever get installed in the first place?...You mentioned the high E can fly out if played hard. I can see how that would happen, but I've never seen or heard anything like that from Yng. So it must be easily avoidable by certain measures?

I'm still a bit puzzled though. I mean, if removing them would improve tuning stability after agressive bending and whammy bar use, why do they ever get installed in the first place?...You mentioned the high E can fly out if played hard. I can see how that would happen, but I've never seen or heard anything like that from Yng. So it must be easily avoidable by certain measures?

yes -- recutting or replacing (with slightly higher nut) and then recutting the slots deeper will remedy the sans-tree string-popping-out issue. But it's not always necessary. The hamonic ringing or chiming Wes mentions can occur simply because of the string tree removal -- and that's another reason some like to remove them. Sort of like the low break angle bridges on original Jazzmasters and Jags: Some love the jangly, chimey and complexly atonal sounds from those guitars --- and in fact the strings sometimes pop off the bridge.

You should have intonation issues only if the nut is not cut well for the angle over it. You don't even need to remove the tree to check this. Just release it from the tree and retune to see ... If the nut was cut correctly for with the tree, I seriously doubt lessing the break angle will change the intonation. String-poppage is a possibility though.

BTW Eric Johnson also removes his string trees. Fender's custom shop versions of Malmsteen's and Johnson's Strats very likely have staggered-height tuner capstans to help correct the high string angles without use of trees.

When I had a Kramer/Focus/Faux-strat, I had problems keeping the guitar in tune when I used the whammy bar. I e-mailed tech support and the tech told me to (1) lubricate the nut with a little pencil lead and (2) lubricate the underside of the string trees with some chap stick. It worked. He also said a tiny drop of oil on the bridge saddles would help, but I tried it once, didn't like it and found it wasn't necessary for me.

I believe the string trees are there because unlike Gibson, Gretsch and many other guitars, the headstock isn't angled. This makes for a stronger headstock, but doesn't keep the strings as tight to the nut. This doesn't matter much until there is a long gap between the nut and the tuner so they put the string trees on the longer spans to stabilize the string as it goes through the nut. At least that is what I've been told. Don't know if it is absolutely true or not, but it sounds reasonable to me.

Insights and incites by Notes

This doesn't matter much until there is a long gap between the nut and the tuner so they put the string trees on the longer spans to stabilize the string as it goes through the nut. At least that is what I've been told. Don't know if it is absolutely true or not, but it sounds reasonable to me.

Insights and incites by Notes

Look at the geometries of the various guitar types. It's not the length of the gap from capstan to nut, but the angle over the nut that is important. If it were the length, then the (non-reverse), tilt-back, six-on-a-side Samurai-style headstocks, as well as three-on-a-side Gibbys would also have string trees for the higher and middle strings, respectively. But they do not. So the trees are not stabilizing a long run, but changing the angle over the nut to be sharper, and similar to the angle of the other lower (on Fender) strings. That creates more perpendicular (downward) force on the nut, increasing the end-of-string coupling to the nut, and thereby creating more ideal endpoint conditions. If the break angle is the same for all strings, then the downward force is also the same for each, as tensions are equalized in a properly gauged set.

sharper break => more downward force on nut => better string seating + more ideal vibrational behavior.

You lubing suggestion is good, but some players seem not ot want to do that. Go figure.

If you play hard, another problem is that the high E string will easily jump out of the nut.
I can attest to that fact. I had an early 80's Strat which I purchased second-hand; The prev. owner had removed the string trees, as well as messed with the pickups, & some other stuff.

I did have a problem with the high e being pushed out of the nut, as well as the b. I purchased a replacement set of trees & that did solve the problem. I would not really consider myself a "heavy-handed" picker, but it did happen, non the less.

As far as Yngwie goes, I don't know how he avoids that. I know that his signature guitars feature a brass nut, & maybe that would have something to do with it. I would like to have one of those signature models. :mrgreen:

I have one of those signature models. In fact, the thing has string trees on it! :|

In fact, his 1971 "the duck" has a string tree on it, I mean where did you hear that Yngwie takes them off of his guitars? Yngwie is by far my HUGEST hero, and I don't ever remember coming across that. Ive studied almost every one of his main guitars, and they always have the string tree...??
** Also, I remember his guitar tech/roadie for 2008 Perpetual Flame tour mentioning something about it to me. He talked about how yngwie likes the wraps on his tuners, and he did say that he uses string trees. Read my "I met Yngwie Malmsteen!" Thread...
Weird, but for your guys' enjoyment heres some shots of my Yngwie Signature :mrgreen:

MetallicaMan, I am drooling! I love the Yngwie strat, & keep saying I will get one someday... The scalloped fretboard pic is nice. :D