I have a Seagull S6 that I've had for about three months. It's a really nice one, it has a shiny burst finish and it sounds great. Unfortunately, it hasn't gotten much playing because it's really hard for me to play. The strings are very high and take a lot of strength to fret. At first I thought it's because I haven't played an acoustic in a while, so my fingers would eventually stiffen up-but they never did!
I compared it to a friend's cheaper Alvarez and even a Martin D-15 at the store. The sad thing was, the Alvarez was more enjoyable to play than my more expensive Seagull! I soon found out about acoustic string guages, and changed my strings from Medium to Light guage. I thought that would make it easier to play, but it only made it a little easier! My guitar was still a pain in the ass to play.
So now I finally got to the action. There's a little more neck relief than it needs, but it's alright. The distance from the top of the 12th fret and the bottom of the low E string is 3/16". Is this too much? If so, do you think I could take it back to the dealer and have it fixed for free? (they're not a chain) Or should I sand down the saddle and adjust the truss rod by myself? I've worked on my electric guitar a lot, but I'm hesitant with this one because it's so valuable (well, not compared to a D-28, but it's the best guitar I have). Please help me, because it's sad to see such a beautiful guitar go to waste. Thanks.
That is pretty high even for an acoustic so I would consider having it lowered. If it is new the shop should stand by you and set it right. Even if you have to pay for it, it is worth having a proper setup done for you and the way you play by a reputable shop.
You could attempt it yourself since it isn't really that difficult just a little different than an electric since there are no mechanical adjustments other than the truss rod. Read up on the techniques if you plan to attack it. One key thing to remember is the amount you need to take off the saddle is double the amount you want to lower the strings at the 12th fret. Go too far and get fret buzz and you will either have to replace the saddle or shim it up.
The ideal string height will vary from one person to the next and the type and construction of the guitar, a typical string height for a steel string acoustic guitar is about 3/32" at the sixth (low E) string and about 5/64" at the first (high E) string, as measured from the top of the twelfth fret to the bottom of the strings.
Unless you feel confident enough and have the tools to make this adjustment, I would say go to the shop where you purchased it and ask them. They may or may not charge, if the shop is thinking of the future return of you coming back to purchase another guitar someday they may just adjust it for free.
Joe
it wouldnt be hard to do at all. Just mark with a pencil line exactly how much material you wish to remove and then rub the bottom of the saddle against some sandpaper held in place with some clamps or something. Try it. Make sure you keep the saddle perpendicular to the sandpaper (which should be horizontal on a flat surface such as marble or something, i used to use marble as a sanding surface but i dont have a piece anymore).
aka Izabella
i just bought an acoustic with really high action too, but i don't want to risk trying to fix it myself and ruining the guitar. Does anyone have a general estimate on how much it would cost to have it adjusted in a shop?
Around here, $50-60 would be reasonable for a simple set-up. Maybe as much as $100 if they need to do more extensive fret or nut work to get the action down to a reasonable level. You might get it cheaper if it is just a simple saddle height adjustment, especially if it's the shop that sold it to you. Either way, it's worth the price to turn a wall decoration into a playable guitar.
You could consider buying a replacement saddle and making the adjustment to that yourself. Then if it all goes to Hades, you could just put the original saddle back.
thanks for the advice.
maybe i will do it myself... after all, i bought it used from a coworker for only $100.
I know you didn't ask but I thought I would pass on some info to get you started.
1) Whatever amount you want to drop the string height at the 12 fret you take double that amount off the bottom of the saddle. In other words to lower the strings 1/32 at the 12th fret take 2/32 off the BOTTOM of the saddle.
2) Take the curt off the bottom of the actual saddle not the bridge itself.
3) I use 200 grit paper on the flattest surface I can find. A mirror tile works great.
NOTE: Before you do any of this make sure the neck relief is good.
As Nils says make sure the neck relief is correct before doing anything. Also, you say it's hard to play -- where? Everywhere? Near the nut only? Away from the nut? Low strings? High? Different sets of adjustments address each.
Set the relief (truss rod) and re-check the playability before changing anything; then determine where you are having difficulty playing. If it's significantly more difficult near the nut (compare F barre chord, first fret to A barre on fifth), then the nut needs adjustment -- it's cut too high for at least some of the strings. This is very common. After you have checked and/or adjusted the nut, then move to bridge saddle adjustment. So the order check and adjust is:
1. Neck relief
2. Nut
3. Saddle
And yes, the dealer should do this for you. But understanding what needs adjustment can help you get the correct service.
-Greg
-=tension & release=-
