Ok, I've got the basic soldering thing down pretty well. A question that I've had for a long time is, why can't I melt those big blobs of solder on the back of the pots that usually hold the ground wires? It seems no matter how long I hold my iron on them they don't soften. Are they a different type of solder or do I need a hotter gun?
I appreciate any comments.
TIA
Jeff
Yes, you need a higher-wattage gun-type iron like one of the Weller dual heat guns in the 100-140-watt range. They come in a nice little carry case/kit for about $30. Try not to leave the heat on the part too long though, as you'll cook things in short order. Good planning is key here..have all wires and leads prepped and in position, solder to the ready, and complete the work as quickly as possible.
Here's one at Home Depot:
Cheers!
Strat
You da man. Thanks!
Yes, you need a higher-wattage gun-type iron like one of the Weller dual heat guns in the 100-140-watt range. They come in a nice little carry case/kit for about $30. Try not to leave the heat on the part too long though, as you'll cook things in short order. Good planning is key here..have all wires and leads prepped and in position, solder to the ready, and complete the work as quickly as possible.
Here's one at Home Depot:
Cheers!
Strat
Hmmm -- be very careful, as that soldering gun is really overkill and can easily damage something as "Strat" mentions. It's a little like using a bigger hammer to make up for inexperience at driving nails. Sure, your soldering iron could be inadequate, but there's also a lot of finesse and technique invovled in good soldering.
Good soldering is all about adequate heat source and heat transfer, which respectively involves proper thermal mass or wattage (that Weller gun is a big hammer -- which can work in the right hands, but ...) to provide adequate heat, hygene = clean surfaces and correct solder, and contact area between the soldering iron tip and target. I routinely use a Weller 40W soldering pencil with its more massy (slightly bigger)tips for soldering to the backs of the pots, but I make sure the pots are cleaned (dirty and corroded don't solder well) and use a good quality rosin core solder. The solding tip as well must be clean and shiny with molten solder (well "tinned") to work well. It's possible to make up for poorly cleaned surfaces using a big @ss soldering iron, but the situation with dirty tips and big, high wattage iron tends to go from cold ... cold ... cold to I-just-burned-it-up very quickly. On a lower wattage iron, the importance of using the bigger tip where there is that option, is that these bigger tip will store more heat and will not cool down as quickly as a smaller tip will upon contact with the pot. The other thing that helps is using a flattened or wedge shaped tip to make better contact with the back of the pot. A pinpoint tip is great for soldering small wires, but does not provide enough surface area to get the heat transferred quickly enough.
Soldering is one of those skills that looks deceptively simple. It takes the right tool and materials, good technique and practice -- the last on something you don't value. Better luck to you.
-=tension & release=-
I just did some work on a guitar for a guy from work and I used my puny little Radio Shack soldering iron and I got the ground free from the pot. It just took a little patience is all. I would have to second all of the above advice from gnease. I'm no expert, but I've done a bit of soldering and I have found out what works.
"Work hard, rock hard, eat hard, sleep hard,
grow big, wear glasses if you need 'em."
-- The Webb Wilder Credo --
I have been soldering for quite some time and
gnease says it clearer and better than any label.
I'm an electronics tech. I solder all day long. The man's got it right all the way. One other tip that can help is add fresh solder while you are making contact. The fresh solder will flow over and into the old solder. Your' problem is there is a lot of metal at the terminal that sinks your' heat away from the work. Flowing new solder in applies more heat at the point of contact that isn't sinked away faster then the old solder begins to flow. A bigger gun is fine if you have a good technique, otherwise you will destroy the component internally. Cleaning your' joints is critical. You should be using flux or flux core solder. Practice makes perfect.
