Installing new bridge on a Gretsch

which Gretsch? and how much diff is the E-e string spacing E-e on the Gretsch than the E-e wrap-around hole (not the saddle) spacing of the new bridge? if the difference is a lot, the fit will be awkward, as the outer-most strings will have to wrap over with a lot of sideways bias (rather than a wrap around perfectly perpendicular to plane of the guitar body).

and, yes, you very likely will have to file (and polish) slight notches in the saddles to position and hold the strings, esp if the wrap-around hole spacing is somewhat diff from the desired string spacing. I would not file these as deep as a nut unless there is a need to level perfectly all the top (playing) surface of the strings. all a slot needs to do is capture the string enough to keep it from popping out of position while playing. and in any case, start with very slight notches to test spacing.

the biggest issue is stud spacing. all the other measurements seem close enough to me (fractions of a millimeter off) I can't install new studs because Im simply not skilled enough. The new bridge on Stewmac has a stud spacing of a millimeter or two wider than the old one. It seems a negligible amount to me but i don't think there's much wiggle room when you're dealing with pieces of aluminum fitting together. Maybe i'm wrong and it'll still fit, I dont know, but that's the biggest concern.

the bridge comes preslotted, but I assume then that I will have to fine tune the slots? I'll have to get some abrasive cord in that case so i can polish it. i tihnk i can do that.

btw it's a Gretsch Electromatic Double Jet II. Reminds me of an LP Junior.

the only double jets I can find are bigsby with ToM bridges, but it looks as if the junior jet II is close to your description. that bridge is compensated already, but probably for a wound g-string, and had limited adjustable only from each stud point. how bad is the intonation?

even a millimeter on stud spacing can be a big PITA, as it will very likely cause binding -- been through this a couple times. if it's really close to 2 mm, it's almost assuredly a plug and redrill instead of plug 'n' play.

as for string spacing, if it's a small fraction of one mm from E to e, no problem. if the fraction is between adjacent strings, it will of course add up. and a total of 1 mm wider spread across the fretboard can be very noticeable -- in both appearance and playability of the low and high E strings near the edge of the f-board and frets.

this could end up being a lot of work and downtime.

yeah it's a junior jet...typo.

interesting what you said about the woung G. I have a set of .13s with a wound G, but it would involve a little work from the .11s on it now. The intonation is just fine until you get up to around 8 or 9. then the G string particularly goes way off and the other strings tend to go a little sharp.

and the string spacing is a fraction of a millimeter for the entire span so you're right i'll be no big deal. i'm beginning to think it might not work because i'd have to redrill. not interested in doing that.

I'll have to see if I can find a set of .11s with a wound G. Or if I'm adventurous, maybe I'll give the .13s a go and make the Gretsch more of a rhythym guitar.

Elixir Nanoweb 12s have a wound G.

another way to go might be to see if you can come up with a way to create an insert for the original bridge that allows the G "saddle point" to shift either forward or backward. there are aftermarket replacements for PRS bridges that allow this (below), but those are a little complicated for homebrew copying. I'm thinking something more like two holes in the bridge body that allow a saddle to be dropped in fore or aft. even a single rectangular hole that accepted a LP ToM wedge saddle might work -- one orientation for forward, rotate 180 degree to "move it back." would require a milling machine. probably easier to plug and redrill the guitar for new stud spacing ...

here's the Wilkinson adjustable made for a plain G:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_guitar,_non-trem_tailpieces/1/Wilkinson_Gotoh_Adjustable_Bridge_Tailpiece/Specs.html#details

however the spacing is similar to the bridge you already are considering.

i thought about the wilkinson but yeah, spacing issue again.

anyway, the wound-G .13s were an improvement. I put them on and I didn't even have to adjust the relief, which surprised me quite a bit. I had to move the bridge back very slightly (about 1/2 turn on the bass side and 1/4 turn on the treble side).

Result is more accurate intonation, and more consistent intonation. The G is no longer way off. Each string still has a small degree of intonation imperfection, but they all have the same degree of imperfection, if you know what I mean. If i play a pentatonic scale around the 12 or 14 fret (this is always my intonation check because it's the first scale I learned and i can tell when it's wrong) sounds much better to my ear.

Granted, I could do better with a fully adjustable bridge, but this is a much better alternative to rerouting a new bridge.

On a scale of one to ten, I'd say it was at a 5, whereas now I'm at around a 7 and a half. I can live with that.

Everything works out I guess. Seeing as I just sold my .13 guitar, the Gretsch can now be my heavy gauge guitar.

yeah it's a junior jet...typo.

I'll have to see if I can find a set of .11s with a wound G. Or if I'm adventurous, maybe I'll give the .13s a go and make the Gretsch more of a rhythym guitar.

http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/DAddario-EXL115W-Nickel-BluesJazz-Wound-3rd-Electric-Guitar-Strings?sku=100196

They make 'em in 10's too!

ah i can't play .10s...or .09s. .11s are teh smallest i can do.

Over on MySpace Gretsch has a page, and they're good about answering messages.