I finally got my blond Squier '51 out of layaway and need some help.
First, the high E string has a slight buzz when picked open. It's kind of strange, has a buzz and then a kind of whoosh sound. The strings are brand new D'Addario 9s. I was there when he put the strings on.
Second, what is the proper way to check intonation? I had heard that you first tune the guitar with a digital tuner (which I have done), and then fret each string at the 12th fret one at a time while checking with the tuner.
Thanks in advance,
Jim-Bone
Hey Jim!!!! :D
Blonde - Great Finish!
As far as intonation goes - you got it right so far.
Intonation is like tuning the strings so that they are correct while the string is fretted.
Tuning open strings insures that you have strings in tune without being fretted.
So now you bring the two together.
When the open strings are in tune.... See how close they are to being in tune an octave up the neck by checking at the 12th fret. (This means actually fretting the string, not a harmonic. Using care not to press too hard on the string or your intonation adjustments will be off. Regular pressure)
If a string is in tune open and flat at the 12th fret - shorten the string length to make the string move sharper.
If its sharp at the 12th fret - lengthen the string to make it move flat.
Hope that helps
Ken
"The man who has begun to live more seriously within
begins to live more simply without"
-Ernest Hemingway
"A genuine individual is an outright nuisance in a factory"
-Orson Welles
Oh - I don't know how familiar you are with guitar parts.
I guess I should say that shortening/lengthening the string means at the bridge saddles -
Turn the screws so that the bridge saddles move towards the headstock and that shortens the string.
Move the saddles back away from the headstock and this makes the string longer.
Of course after every move you'll have to re-tune the open strings to check everything again.
I'm not familiar with the bridge type on that guitar - 3 or 6 saddle????
On fenders that I've had experience with, the high E and B strings usually need to have the saddles REALLY FAR forward.
Sometimes the high E saddle will need to move all the way til it hits the screw on the bridge plate.
If you find this to be the case - all is normal.
If not - LUCKY YOU!
Check the height at the bridge saddle for the buzzing string.
Make sure it's not touching anything when it's vibrating.
Let us know how it goes :)
Ken
"The man who has begun to live more seriously within
begins to live more simply without"
-Ernest Hemingway
"A genuine individual is an outright nuisance in a factory"
-Orson Welles
I have 3 '51s and they all suffer from some easily correctable issues:
Bridge rattle/buzz: (May be your problem) The saddle height adjustment screw on the '51 are prone to buzzing. This might be your problem. To check for this, run your finger lightly over the tops of the twelve height adjustment screws. It's pretty easy to notice the loose ones. Also touching the screws while playing the offending string(s) or note(s) will give you a clue. To correct this, don't overtighten the offending screws, only just tighten them so they stop rattling. After that apply a drop of clear fingernail polish or Locktite to keep the screw(s) from loosening.
Nut height is too high: Simple as that, the nut slots needs to be cut and shaped properly. Symptom of this is tuning issues, notably among the various open chords. Plus it can be difficult to get open and fretted notes in tune with each other if using a tuner to tune open strings.
If you can deal with the change, I recommend moving your strings up to 10s on the '51. This will improve the tone and "strummability." Slightly more difficult to bend notes? Well yes, but overall you will end up with a better playing instrument. If you make this change, be prepared to re-cut the nut slots, adjust neck relief and re-intonate the bridge. It's worth it.
-=tension & release=-
Thanks Ken and Gnease!
Shortly after my post last night, we lost our internet connection. I was looking at the guitar again and found that one of the allen screws on the high E was backed almost all the way out. Don't have an excuse as to why I didn't see it before. Anyway, I hand tightened it and there is just the slightest hint of a buzz. So I think I am good there
I will probably at some point change to 10s. I am going to claim complete ignorance though on cutting the nut. What tool is best used for this? Do I adjust the neck relief at the top of the neck just under the nut? Do I adjust the relief before tuning? Sorry for so many questions, I am not afraid to tackle this, but just want to do it right.
Thanks,
Jim-Bone
I am going to claim complete ignorance though on cutting the nut. What tool is best used for this?
The proper tool for the job is... a nut file, or more properly,a set of them.
I wrapped a newspaper ’round my head
So I looked like I was deep
Thanks kent_eh! I guess it will be a while before I do that. I'm still getting this from getting the '51 :roll: (LOL)!
Jim-Bone
Use Loctite on the bridge saddle screws as Gnease recommends. Also use it on the output jack nut. Just be sure to use the blue removable type, not the red one which is permanent.
Be careful if you adjust the nut, because the one on the '51 is soft as soap and it's very easy to go too far. Sad to say I know this from experience ... :( Fortunately tusq replacement nuts are inexpensive.
"Everybody got to elevate from the norm."
I'll do that, thanks for the tips slejhamer!
Jim-Bone
Use Loctite on the bridge saddle screws as Gnease recommends. Also use it on the output jack nut. Just be sure to use the blue removable type, not the red one which is permanent.
Be careful if you adjust the nut, because the one on the '51 is soft as soap and it's very easy to go too far. Sad to say I know this from experience ... :( Fortunately tusq replacement nuts are inexpensive.
So are graphite impregnated nuts (dark gray ones) -- cheap, that is. Replacing all of mine with graphites for well under $5 each.
-=tension & release=-
Use Loctite on the bridge saddle screws as Gnease recommends. Also use it on the output jack nut. Just be sure to use the blue removable type, not the red one which is permanent.
Be careful if you adjust the nut, because the one on the '51 is soft as soap and it's very easy to go too far. Sad to say I know this from experience ... :( Fortunately tusq replacement nuts are inexpensive.
So are graphite impregnated nuts (dark gray ones) -- cheap, that is. Replacing all of mine with graphites for well under $5 each.
Good deal! Are those preslotted?
"Everybody got to elevate from the norm."
Hi Jim.
Glad you got that string buzz fairly easily.
For tips on neck adjustment,
see - "Strat and string buzz" - in this (Guitar Repair and Maintenance) section.
Ken
"The man who has begun to live more seriously within
begins to live more simply without"
-Ernest Hemingway
"A genuine individual is an outright nuisance in a factory"
-Orson Welles
For tips on neck adjustment,
see - "Strat and string buzz" - in this (Guitar Repair and Maintenance) section.
Ken
Good info, thanks again Ken!
Jim-Bone
I had the same issues on my 51. I went to 11's (power slinkys) and lowerd the action. Then adjusted the intonation.I Didn't need to mess with the truss rod. Stays in tune and no buzz 8) With the thicker strings I can get a nice country twang out of it :D
Use Loctite on the bridge saddle screws as Gnease recommends. Also use it on the output jack nut. Just be sure to use the blue removable type, not the red one which is permanent.
Be careful if you adjust the nut, because the one on the '51 is soft as soap and it's very easy to go too far. Sad to say I know this from experience ... :( Fortunately tusq replacement nuts are inexpensive.
So are graphite impregnated nuts (dark gray ones) -- cheap, that is. Replacing all of mine with graphites for well under $5 each.
Good deal! Are those preslotted?
Yes -- but for 9s, so they need cutting for larger gauges.
-=tension & release=-
