Strat replacement bridge?

I'm guessing you meant that you added two more springs toyour bridge. Anyways....

Yes, an easy mod you can do yourself. Get a spare block of wood, any type but peed something fairly solid (i.e.Pref not pine which dings easily, tho this might work anyway). Screw the claw holding the springs in until the bridge sits flat, then cut and shape your block of wood to fit the space between the trem block and the back of the cavity wall. It should slide in so the bridge won't move (so you can't depress the wammy arm at all). The trem block should hold it in place just fine. If not, loosen the claw springs slightly so the trem block exerts more pressure in the block of wood. Then close up the back and remove the trem arm and you're good to go.

This is precisely what Clapton has done to his strats. Googling might get you some pics, but it's a straightforward mini-mod.

Fender did make some hardtails in the late 50s an early 60s but they never proved too popular, and mostbplayers using "hardtail" strats will actually be using this wood-block method if they are playing Fender.

I have the Fender catalogue from 4-5 years ago and they still had a hardtail, then.

i did mean springs, not bridge there. Thanks for catching that. I might see if i can fine a block of wood to fit it and see what happens - perhaps take it to the local music store if not.

Thanks scrybe

Greybeard - my bad, meant to say it is an option and has been since the early days but it isn't very popular.

Phonage - you won't need to take it to the shop, this is a very simple fix. Will post some pics/instructions later for you.

Edit: Hardtail strats have been available from Fender since 1955.

I hope these links work, I just spent an hour uploading them!

that should give you enough by way of pics and instructions to be getting on with.

And I thoroughly recommend any Strat (or Strat copy) owners to obtain a copy of the Haynes Fender Stratocaster Manual, written by Paul Balmer. It is a well-written work, with tons of pictures, covering most things you could want to do with your guitar. It will guide you on basic maintenance, and give you some information on more intensive modifications should you be brave enough to try them (or even if you want to be clear on what is involved before sending your guitar to a tech).

If you still experience tuning issues after installing the wood block, I'd look at the tuners and nut as being your problem. They're usually the cause of tuning issues generally. Locking tuners are (in my experience) awesome upgrades, and if you have e.g. moved up a gauge of string size, you could experience binding at the nut. I've upgraded my Strat to locking tuners, but still get some tuning problems from the nut (I switched from factory 9s to my preferred 10s) so I'll be filing the nut when I can afford proper files to do the work with.

Edit: woo hoo. It worked. The first pic alone should be sufficient, but the others have close ups of sections of that page.

I just added extra springs and tightened them and it did the trick for me more than once, but the wood block method is a very solid one. I can see where this would be really good for the trems that float on 2 posts as they will angle backwards if you tighten the springs. The vintage kind with the 6 screws will sit flush with the body.

The Drop Top, designed by Todd Rockfield at Florida's Customshopparts, is the only correct hardtail, string-through-surface replacement, that I know of. I think he sells through dealers now such as this one:

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Custom-Shop-Parts-Hot-Rod-Drop-Top-Convertible-Bridge?sku=361537#new

It will fit Vintage American Strats with 6 screw tremolo bridges and routing, and your Highway One.

Careful you don't ever buy a "correct" hardtail bridge which takes ferrules and strings through body.

But I never used it, since I block trems, only when I do, as the guys said, sort of like Eric Clapton.

wow scrybe! Thank you very much! I'm definitely saving those pages for later use.

I actually already have the Schaller Locking tuners (in brushed chrome) on my strat, so that wasn't an issue. The first thing I did was tighten the bridge screws on the strat. After that, I tried retuning to a few different types - and found out that it was much more consistent - that the previous or next string wasn't going crazy sharp or flat.

I think that I'm content to leave it there. Between the locking tuners, 5 springs, and tightened screws - I'm very happy.

Blue jay - that bridge looks pretty cool.

Thanks all for the help

wow scrybe! Thank you very much! I'm definitely saving those pages for later use.

I actually already have the Schaller Locking tuners (in brushed chrome) on my strat, so that wasn't an issue. The first thing I did was tighten the bridge screws on the strat. After that, I tried retuning to a few different types - and found out that it was much more consistent - that the previous or next string wasn't going crazy sharp or flat.

I think that I'm content to leave it there. Between the locking tuners, 5 springs, and tightened screws - I'm very happy.

Blue jay - that bridge looks pretty cool.

Thanks all for the help

Good decision, good you're happy!

With either tightening the claw in the tremolo cavity at the back, and whether you add the the 2 extra springs or not, it's up to you.... you'll get a hardtail, as I do, going from the Silver one here that floats like a butterfly, to the other old thing that stings like a bee, which is my son's creation, incidentally. I have 3 springs, he has 5 very strong and cranked ones, yet we do not mar the finish, whether using the trem or locking it, and we don't dent or compress the wood as many people warn. :shock:

First pics, then I got a bit more of advice for your vintage bridge, which you probably learned by now.

So, on the vintage brige with the 6 screws in front, tightening THEM actually raises the tail of the bridge, which goes against what you are trying to do. Technically, they are just to be snugged without raising the tail, or tightened enough to keep the block of wood in there, as in Eric Clapton's. That block isn't actually necessary, it only helps solidify things and may add sustain.