Modifying A Cheap Guitar

Can anyone find a case where Fender mixes different colored pickups? Though as long as it includes fender parts it's probably decent enough for an upgrade, will the pickguard fit the Yamaha alright?

thing to do - is play the guitar via multi-effect pedal -

I'm using zoom 505 II - on very cheap guitar (200$ - is it's price)
and it sounds very good through the multi-effect.

easier and simpler then modifiying things plus you have the multi-effect for the next guitar you'll buy...

Primeta - Good spot. I didn't even pay attention to that.

itziks - Yes, that is probably the smart move. Not as much fun though. For some reason, I want to meddle with that guitar. You know, for fun. :D

I wouldn't do the pups. A booster and/or EQ would be a better choice for sound improvement. Lower priced guitars usually lack in a several areas that can be improved easily and effectively: Setup, shielding, fret dressing and tuners. Not sure you can do all four for $95, but you could buy a $30 set of tuners, get a $18 Dan Erlewine book (e.g., Guitar Player's Repair Guide) on setup and repair, and have $47 left for fret leveler, crowning file and with some other, pre-owned tools learn to do the setup and fret dressing yourself. Shielding tape or spray doesn't cost all that much -- the setup/repair book will explain how to apply this.

Good luck and have fun -- Greg

I wouldn't buy a whole new wired pickguard.

I usually put a Carvin twin blade pickup or 2 in my cheap guitars (I never use the bridge pickups) and they are priced well and sound better, brings the guitar to life a little bit.

Tuners are a big plus when upgrading a low budget guitar. I usually switch to Grover tuners, Grover is just my preference.

My first cheap guitar turned out to be shielded properly, can't hurt to check yours. If not, a sheet of ground material for your pickguard is cheap and easy. There is a proper way to do the wiring/grounding also, so you do not create a loop for noise to feed back on. Ground only one side of grounding wires and ground them all to a single common point. Ok?

That and a fresh set of Elixers after a visit to Nil's website to see if the guitar needs to be dialed in better for string height and intonation and you have then made yourself an improved guitar that is noticeably better. 8)

Sweet. The ideas keep coming in.

I'll get that book. Sounds like a good thing to have regardless. I won't take the expense out of this toy's budget either. :)

Tuners: I'm not sure how they improve sound other than staying in tune better, but for that reason alone I'll get some. I like the Grovers on my epi. I've got another axe that really needs them.

Pick-ups versus Pick Guard: The whole idea behind that one was that there were 3 Fender pickups already with that guard. The whole thing looked like a decent price. Are you guys saying that instead of Fender p-ups, I should get a decent after-market set?

I was planning the same thing myself only my cheap guitar was a Harmony I paid $10 for on Ebay.
I had thought of buying a sheet of plexiglass from the hardware store to make my own pickguard. (maybe a thought for your project)
The status of my project?
First thing I saw was the tuners were garbage(need new tuners). The pups had rust on them (new pups and might as well replace the switches too) It had a super cheap bridge (new bridge)
Neck is in terrible shape (new neck)
I stripped everything down and the Nut and body are all that's left.
The body is laminate and with a full wood shop in my garage I can make a better one.
So here I am with a plastic Nut, if I replace everything else is it still an upgrade?

Missleman, yes. That still counts. There are some variables that play into it, but it sez right here in the Man's Guide To Illogical Maintainance that, and I quote, "If either money was spent or time was wasted, the percentage of original product does not need to meet minumum requirements.". It also sez that if significent other objects, but tells her mother before complaining to you, that you can even go into the negative. That means that you can actually ruin the nut and a new part and still call it a refurbish, thus warrenting you an all important "attaboy". It's got to be at least $100 though. Hence, my budget.

Sadly, the little misses would be really angry with me if I spent money on another guitar, but is OK with me fixing up one I already have.

Sadly, the little misses would be really angry with me if I spent money on another guitar, but is OK with me fixing up one I already have.

You just have to "ruin" the guitar so that it makes really grating noises (.i.e. something that she will really hate) and blame it on the guitar being totally screwed up and hence needing replacement..

You just have to "ruin" the guitar so that it makes really grating noises (.i.e. something that she will really hate) and blame it on the guitar being totally screwed up and hence needing replacement..

That's a change at least. I normally blame noises on the dog.

OK Folks, here's the final plan and budget to fix up that cheapie Yamaha.

Pick Guard, Mighty Mite. I may not use the guard but I'll use the pickups for sure. Cost $30

Tuners. Gonna try to score a set of grovers for this price. $30

Intonation & other adjustments - $0

Strings - $5

That leaves me $35 for tools & supplies to do the fret work that gnease suggested.

In the end, I'll get to learn some basic guitar maint skills to use on good guitars, and, hopefully end up with a little better cheapie guitar to show for it.

It'll be a few weeks to get the stuff at the prices I need. I'll keep you posted.

A little more on fret dressing, as it could save you money:

If the frets aren't worn and strings don't buzz with proper setup (bridge and nut heights, neck angle and relief) there are really only two things to consider on the frets: dressing the edges and polishing. Only do a dressing (filing) if the fret edges feel too rough (catch skin) when sliding your hand along the edges of the fingerboard. Feels nice? Then there's nothing to do here, and all that's left is polishing. Best to remove the neck, but not required -- just have to be more careful and mask off the delicate parts (pups and the like). Also mask off the fingerboard if it's laquered or poly coated (more likely) maple. This operation won't hurt rosewood or ebony. Then use 000000 (SIX zeros), ultra fine polishing steel wool to polish the frets to slippery smoothness. Remove all possible filings before unmasking and/or re-installing the neck.

If all you need to do is polish the frets, you will have some money left over for a new cable or strap.

Gnease what do you recommend to dress the frets I've always used a sanding blok with fine sand paper.

I have a leveler, end dressing file and crowning file, all made for various fretwork purposes. Which operation(s) are you asking about, dressing the edges or finishing/polishing the tops? I can see finishing the tops with a block and some types of paper, then completing the polishing with 000000 steel wool. Edge work is a different story. Putting a smooth, bevelled end on a fret is much easier with a triangular file that has smooth, non-abrasive corners and cutting faces. Stew-Mac sells these.