I use the plug bits in repairs where I can't redrill a hole, neck screws, bridge mounting screws, pickup mounting screws, etc... Other than that, I just get the new screw as close as I can.
I sometimes drill a new hole next to it in that situation too but, being a stubborn old buzzard, I like to get the old one out if I can. :twisted:
I sometimes use things that we call 'easy-outs' for broken studs, screws and things. I expect rt1 uses them too. The way they work is that you drill a small hole down the centre of the broken stud or screw (maybe a broken stud in an engine block, or something like that). Then you select the right sized easy-out for the job and screw into into the hole. They are similar to a screw with the difference being that what looks like the 'thread' has a different 'pitch' and goes in the other direction to a normal thread. So you wind anticlockwise, and the tool winds in and when it 'bites' against the sides of the hole it grips the stud and screws it out.
Great for bigger studs and screws, but I doubt if it would be usable on such a small screw here. Nice principle though. :D
There is a procedure for removing screws that break off level with the wood, it calls for using a plug drill bit, its actually a hollow drill bit that cuts a solid plug from around the screw, then you fill the hole with a plug of wood. I make my own bits but this is probably more effort than it is worth if you don't do this everyday.
They sound like handy things. I can't believe I haven't got around to getting any - I usally snorkel up anything like that I see - whether I need it or not. :wink: I have something similar for larger work, but nothing down at that size. Must check the shops.... :D
Cheers,
Chris
I make hollow drill bits out of gasket hole punches, these come in sets from 1/16th inch to 1/2 inch.
They look like center punches except that they are hollowed out with a slot in the side to remove the punched out piece.
I file teeth into the tip and use a hand drill or twist them in by hand to cut the wood around the broken screw, I then use a larger size that corresponds to the hole left in the wood and I cut a plug that fits tightly in and I glue it in.
It takes a little patience to cut the teeth in the punches but once it's done they last a long time when cutting wood. I got this idea from Dan Erlewine's guitar repair books, he uses tubing and I just took it one step further by using the punches.
Easy outs work on bolts more than 3/16th of an inch, and you have to drill a pilot hole in the bolt, easier said than done and there aren't too many screws or bolts that size in guitars. Also, I use left-handed drill bits to drill the pilot holes, the LH twist has a tendency to loosen the broken bolt while drilling.
When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather, not screaming......
like the passengers in his car.
Great info racetruck1 - thanks. Lots of good ideas there. :)
I mostly work with wood and my knowledge has been picked up in fairly random way through chatting and experimenting. So it's great to pick up new ideas. Hope you don't mind if I copy them. :)
I have two brother who also like messing around with things. One restores steam traction engines (those massive things that they used to use on farms before tractors, and also as steam rollers or road haulage engines). So he's the one with the really well equipped metal working shop. He can fix just about anything mechanical. Unfortunately, we live 12,000 mile apart, so I don't get to use his skills or his tools. :)
The other one is a retired airline pilot who is building an airoplane in his garage. :shock: It's a full scale replica of a WWI Sopwith Snipe (the one after the Camel). He's using a copy of the original plans and following the original specs as closely as possible. It's a wooden aircraft but there's still a huge amount of metalwork involved as there are numerous brackets holding all the bracing wires and frame joints. Some amazing shapes that had to be bent and fabricated. Many of the skills involved in building them have been largely lost or neglected, so he's had to learn a huge amount.
He's also slowly collected all the original gauges and controls, plus an engine (that was restored in Canada) that's not original but fairly close. Luckily he lives a couple of thousand miles away too, so I may be able to avoid flying in it when it's finished! 8)
My modest claim to tinkering fame is really only fixing cars, and doing a bit of house building and renovating (although I did design and build my current house solo from scratch). Funnily enough, Dad could barely bang a nail in straight and certainly never managed anything like putting a shelf up! Mum could turn her hand to most things though.
Cheers,
Chris
I believe what Racetrack is referring to is called an "Easy-Out". You can pick up this special drill bit at any hardware store. The bit imbeds itself in the stripped screw head. You then reverse the drill and it will pull the stripped screw out.
If that doesn't work, drill the head of the screw off as suggested. Then take pliers or lock-grips to remove the shaft of the screw from the guitar.
It is hard to imagine that someone would strip the screw head without first stripping the wood. :?
If you know something better than Rock and Roll, I'd like to hear it - Jerry Lee Lewis
Wes,
I think you are talking about those bits that Sears sells! I also have a set of them, they do work but they are too big for really small screws!
They do make left-hand drill bits. The twist goes left, you have to run your drill backward for them to cut!
By the way, I don't know why, but it seems that the screws that they put in guitars are really soft, stripped screws are really common on the stuff I work on. Another thing, a lot of people use either the wrong size screwdriver or one thats worn out. That's why I buy the best screwdrivers that money can get, a good set of Snap-On screwdrivers will set you back about $!00.00!
The advantage is they last longer and if I do break one or wear one out, the Snap-On guy shows up at my door and hands me one no questions asked!
Albeit, this is overkill, I also make my living with them and I can't always get to Sears every other day! (I have a garage, that's what I do after I retired from engineering! Less stress...) :roll:
When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my grandfather, not screaming......
like the passengers in his car.
I have two brother who also like messing around with things. One restores steam traction engines (those massive things that they used to use on farms before tractors, and also as steam rollers or road haulage engines). So he's the one with the really well equipped metal working shop. He can fix just about anything mechanical. Unfortunately, we live 12,000 mile apart, so I don't get to use his skills or his tools. :)
12,000 miles away from West Australia would be around, say, Netley Marsh of Steam Engine Rally fame? I used to go as a kid, I love traction engines. :)
The other one is a retired airline pilot who is building an airoplane in his garage. :shock: It's a full scale replica of a WWI Sopwith Snipe (the one after the Camel). He's using a copy of the original plans and following the original specs as closely as possible. It's a wooden aircraft but there's still a huge amount of metalwork involved as there are numerous brackets holding all the bracing wires and frame joints. Some amazing shapes that had to be bent and fabricated. Many of the skills involved in building them have been largely lost or neglected, so he's had to learn a huge amount.
He's also slowly collected all the original gauges and controls, plus an engine (that was restored in Canada) that's not original but fairly close. Luckily he lives a couple of thousand miles away too, so I may be able to avoid flying in it when it's finished! 8)
:shock: and :shock: again! I love biplanes even more than I love traction engines, and the DIY approach is right up my street :)
Yeah but...... isnt a stripped screw a screw that has its thread missing not a screw that has the top mangled??
Woot Woot!!
